Sunday 29 April 2018

Real life mask loves...don't expect instagram worthy photos.


Let's talk masks.

Everyone from Aldi to Armani now make face masks. It is a bit of a minefield.
Luckily for you, I have tried A LOT. (I've tried a lot of everything, much to the disgust of my bank balance)

Here is a run down of my faves and my top tips, as well as some that really are not worth the hype/money




This is without doubt, the best clay/charcoal mask I have used. You can use this on larger areas with blocked pores or literally to spot treat.

This is amazing for those cystic spots that will not come to the surface. I also swear by my patented salt water technique for drawing them out. See below.



  1. Boil a kettle, rinse some water around the mug to warm it. This helps because the colder the mug, the quicker the hot water will cool and you will have to get up and down to refill.
  2. Fill the mug half full and add a teaspoon of salt
  3. Wrap a cotton wool pad (or even better, use a cotton ball) around a teaspoon.
  4. Dunk in the hot water
  5. Test the heat – you don’t want to burn your face
  6. Rest the hot salt water cotton on the spot
  7. Dip and return to the face for around 10 to 15 minutes. Make sure the water stays hot.
  8. The area should go red, you are attempting to boost circulation to get the spot to surface
This mask is also great for when you pop a spot (naughty, but sometimes must be done) and need to draw out any remnants and calm it all down.

Dupe for: GLAMGLOW SUPERMUD MASK. Much cheaper. Much less irritating (the tingle factor in the Glamglow is completely unnecessary. If you want salicylic acid, apply it directly in another form. The combination is too drying.

PLEASE DO NOT USE PORE STRIPS/THOSE GOD AWFUL PEEL OFF MASKS ON FACEBOOK. All you will do is worsen acne, trigger rosacea, irritate and flake dry skin and cause broken capillaries. It is not worth it. If you have that many black heads that ca be pulled out by effectively, liquid sellotape, then you need to be looking at your cleansing and serum routine. 


This is the most milk form of acid peel that I will mention here. I used this religiously throughout my roaccutane treatment. The flaky skin needed to be removed somehow, my stronger masks made my face fall off and scrubs just led to broken capillaries.

Ingredients:

No parabens, sulfates or synthetic fragrances
Glycolic acid
Some nice oils (low down the list) to buffer
Hyaluronic acid
Vitamin C – please note, I do not believe that vitamin C in mask form will give any results beyond the fact that it is slightly acidic. In order for vitamin C to be active, it either needs to sit on the surface of the skin to provide antioxidant protection, or absorb into the skin to boost collagen. It will not do either of these things in 10 minutes. It is also light sensitive so when stored in a clear tube it probably wont be active.

This will leave your face GLOWING, resurfaced but not irritated. Great for sensitive skin


Out of all of them, this might be my favourite mask.

Spotty? Amazing. Dry? Amazing. Dull? Amazing.

Stronger than the Murad mask (15% glycolic acid) but still somehow not irritating. This will leave you with glass/baby-bum skin

Love


Only use this if you have rhino skin.

This has a whopping 30% AHA - Glycolic (note this is first on the ingredients list) Lactic Acid, Tartaric Acid and Citric Acid
 and….2% BHA (2% BHA is the max the EU will allow us to use in cosmetic products),
as well as some hyaluronic acid

It is a beetroot colour and very liquid. Apply a few drops at a time otherwise it will drip all over your sink/bathroom floor. It has this colour so people don’t leave it on like a serum. If you did this, you would probably have some exposed bone when you next looked in the mirror.

This is amazing for pigmentation, dry skin, dull skin, blocked pores, blackheads, spots and scarring. If you want results, this will give them to you.

Work your way up slowly. You’ve been warned

One to avoid: GLAMGLOW YOUTHMUD™ Tinglexfoliate Treatment. This contains absolutely no AHA’s or BHA’s and no proven resurfacing ingredients other than pumice and silica which are physical exfoliants (you know my feelings on these). There are however a LOT of ingredients designed to piss off your skin ( tingle means its working right? WRONG)
Just don’t bother.


This is great for everyone. Roaccutane burns, over use of said The Ordinary product above, sunburn, dryness etc. This mask will fix it. It is very rich but it is removed so I do not have such an issue with leaving it on my skin. This is amazing to apply overnight, or to apply in the afternoon before an evening event. Your make up goes on like a dream.

Hydrating, soothing and calming. Also amazing on a plane as it leaves no visible residue but you will arrive hydrated

Albatrellus Extract, Arnica, Algae, oils and probiotics tackle redness, inflammation, and relieve irritation and itchiness. There are no chemical nasties in here. It almost leaves a film over the skin, so if you are the kind of dry where you feel you continuously want to apply moisturiser – this will be perfect and can just be dabbed off with a tissue before makeup.  However, if you are combination, or have irritation from products or medications, this is also perfect, just cleanse off and continue your skin care routine.

Home made masks

Yes you can buy clay. But when my beloved Sanctuary mask can be picked up at boots for under a tenner – why bother? The mess and frustration will not compensate for the cheapness of buying your own bag of clay.

“Crushing aspirin to make salicylic acid”. Yes aspirin is a version of salicylic acid. However it is not in the right pH to create a version that will have any effect when put on your skin. Plus mixing it with water – which is the only way you can apply – will make a complete mess, and destabilise the product. The ordinary has a salicylic acid solution which is a fiver, and their AHA BHA mask is also a similar price.

Turmeric. Turmeric has indeed been shown to have anti inflammatory properties but not when applied topically. Put it in your cooking not on your face

Natural alternatives to retinol”. If retinol was not such a buzz word at the moment, no one would be claiming. What they mean is “this product might help resurface or moisturise the skin”. Retinol is the only product that can actually boost turnover of skin cells and make them act like younger versions of themselves.

Orange juice is the best source of vitamin C”. No. Just no. If you wish to burn your face/apply a lot of sugar to it then go ahead. In order for vitamin C to act on the skin it ideally needs to be in the form of ascorbic acid. This needs to be stabilised and pH balanced in order to work. Buy a vitamin C serum or The Ordinary vitamin C powder instead. The same applies for putting lemon juice on your face. Yes it is acidic but not in a form that will do any true resurfacing, it will just make you sticky (at best) or burn you.

“Glycolic acid comes from cane sugar – why can’t I just use that”. If this was the case, all the leading beauty companies would start sticking sugar in their products. It would be far cheaper and easier. You will, again, end up with a sticky face that will be a nightmare to cleanse, and will get no true glycolic acid resurfacing because it is not in the right form. Sugar is not glycolic acid. It is sugar.

Avocado - yes this provides lots of nice oils and fats, of all the home made options this offends me the least. However if you can afford to buy avocados purely to mash, put on your face and wash down the sink, then you can afford a more advanced and proven formula. 

Just buy a tried, dermatologically tested, stable, pH balanced, regulated mask. You do not have to spend a fortune (although you can if you want to). 
You can buy most of these from lookfantastic, who I have ordered from for YEARS and they have never failed me. My other new fave site for more luxury items is Cultbeauty. 

Friday 27 April 2018

My Summer Body Survival Kit


Following on from my SPF post, I thought it would be a good idea to discuss body skin health too!

These products are my fail, safe go-to, summer survival products .

Dirty Works Glow Girl Buttery Salt Scrub

Without getting anyone in trouble....this whole range seems to be a knock off of Soap and Glory. The scent is EXACTLY the same as some of the Soap and Glory range - especially the Hand Food hand cream. There are some pretty similar products too, at a fraction of the price!

This scrub is my absolute favourite. I have tried tens of body scrubs and they are either way too oily, not scrubby enough, or too expensive for something that rubs off dead skin and goes down the plug hole. This has little salt and pumice grains (no microbeads) in a carrier that is in no way oily. It is the perfect prep for fake tan unlike a lot of oily scrubs out there, as it does not leave a residue.
It also does not foam, which causes the opposite product of drying out the skin too much

This is a necessary before, during and after holiday to keep the tan looking fresh and avoiding the dreaded "skank tan". This atrocity can be seen on those who are so desperate to keep the tan they got on their yearly sun-baking-skin-leathering holiday, that they don't dare touch the tan in case it fades. This leads to the skin becoming dusty grey, wrinkled, dehydrated and at the slightest touch they turn to ash. Like someone has emptied a hoover onto their arms and rubbed it in. To me, this completely defeats the object of a holiday glow.

Body Fake Tans (facial tanners to follow soon in a new post!)

Xen Tan Dark Lotion

In my opinion, the best fake tan. Here's why


  1. It is olive based (hence a slight greenish tint to the guide colour) so no orange legs
  2. It wears AMAZINGLY well. It just fades gently rather than patching and leaving you looking like a tiger bread loaf from your local bakery
  3. The solution is easy to apply. It gives a dark tan within 4 hours. Other products with the power to do this are usually in a mousse (very difficult to apply, hard to blend if you make a mistake, clings to dry patches) or a spray (very wasteful for large body parts)
  4. The smell is bearable. Any fake tan that actually tans you, will end up smelling like fake tan as it develops. You cannot get around this. 
  5. I have never experienced body acne when using this
  6. It is under 15 quid for a bottle so very competitively priced

Sienna X express self tan mist

They have changed the bottle from the one in the photo, I stockpile this every Christmas and birthday so I never run out so I still have some with the old design.

I wouldn't use this all over the body as it does lean towards the orange side of tan but still looks natural. However it does not last very long in terms of wearing off. The guide colour is lovely and actually, if you have skin that can tolerate it, sprayed over the face gives a GORGEOUS glow, tint and almost a hint of coverage, as well as developing into a colour over the course of the day.

I use this solely for my back. It is a single girl habit I have not grown out of. It sprays at any angle and doesn't need rubbing in so it's great for all those hard to reach areas - back, down the sides, over the feet and hands to give a more natural distribution if you struggle in these areas.

Dry Body Brush

I personally use this one from Dunelm but any FIRM body brush will do. Avoid the ones with the plastic type bristles as I find these don't work as well. They can come on handles but you can simply detach this and slip your hand under the other loop.

I use this every day on my thighs/bums/hips

You always need to work towards the heart to improve circulation and lymphatic drainage.
I move the brush in circles up the thighs and round the hips and bum, always moving up.
After covering the whole area, I then do straight, upward strokes over the area.
It takes about 2 minutes.
I then put on some body cream, and I'm done.

It's also great for backs of arms or anywhere where you get puffy or have uneven skin texture.


PLEASE NOTE:
NOTHING cosmetic will remove cellulite. It is an unfortunate fact that most women have to deal with. Creams, treatments, massage etc will not make any long term difference.

Massage will temporarily push the fat layer back into the compartment where it should be so might work for a few hours but the cellulite will return again.

All you can hope to do is improve the skin texture, aid lymphatic drainage to remove the "heavy leg" feeling and make the skin more even and smooth and stop fluid pooling in the area worsening the appearance of the cellulite, exfoliate so the light reflects more evenly, and disguise it with some fake tan.

La Roche Posay Serozinc

Amazing for anyone who is prone to body acne (bacne). I take it on holiday with me to use as a cooling mist (because it is anti inflammatory and anti bacterial vs some of the moisturing or hydrating waters which just add oil or heavy layers).
I also use it after showering to cool the skin and reduce the risk of acne forming.
Great also after the gym if you just have a quick shower and need to make sure your back and chest are clean

Ameliorate Transforming Body Lotion

I have now tried and tested this for a week and can confirm I LOVE IT.

It smells a bit odd...I think it is a combination of the sweet almond oil and almost a milky smell (unsurprising seeing as the major selling point is the lactic acid base). It is not bad by any means but it wouldn't be my chosen fragrance. HOWEVER it works amazingly.

The lactic acid is a non-harsh and hydrating alpha hydroxy acid (AHA - see my toner post if you want more info) and so if you have been lazy on your exfoliating/can't be bothered with body brushing/your skin is too sensitive for physical exfoliants.

This massively improved the look of my legs even with my obsessive scrubbing and has also improved the texture on my chest. This is also a great one to use on the neck if you are doing the quick shower and out the door routine and don't have a lot of time. It has some great skin care ingredients as well as being a great, hydrating body cream.

If you have bumpy back of arm syndrome (Keratosis Pilaris) this is also amazing and what the product was initially designed for.

Escentual have an offer on this until the end of April if you're quick! They also do different sizes so you can try a small tube and go from there.

Gillette Fusion Proglide Flexball Razor (half price at superdrug currently)

If you are somewhat retarded at shaving (like me) then you will be well versed with having various cuts and nicks on your legs every time you shave. I accepted this as a part of my hair free lifestyle, until I thought I would try a man's razor as a last resort.

This is without doubt the best razor I have ever used and will never use another. When I went away the other weekend I forgot this bad boy and had to use a disposable one. I thought "oh it'll be fine". It was not fine.

This is a pricey option but in the year that I have been using it, I have not cut myself shaving once. I can skim around knees, ankle bones and all sorts with no problem. It requires no shaving cream - just running water. A point on this - just use a shower oil (I love The Sanctuary 2 day Long Lasting Moisture Shower Oil which is an over-half-price dupe for the L'Occitane Almond Shower Oil )  or hair conditioner if you struggle with shaving bumps or are very dry.

I tend to wax during winter but during summer I do not have the time or patience for regrowth between appointments

Bonus product
Australian body care tea tree oil body lotion

This is an absolute must for anyone who suffers from bacne .  It is also the ONLY product I have ever found to ease sunburn/heat rash/insect bites. I would not recommend tea tree oil near on spots but this lotion is amazing. All summer I use it on my back and chest.


Enjoy!

Look out for my body SPF and facial fake tanners posts coming soon!



Wednesday 25 April 2018

SPF review - mineral(ish) wonders for sensitive and acne prone skin



Hi. My name is Michelle, and I am a tan-aholic.

I love being tanned. I think the issue stems from the fact that summer, when I have a glow and some colour, is the only time I ever receive a compliment (get out the tiny violins). My tan is something people envied and aimed to achieve (mostly resulting in my boyfriend looking like a lobster).
The issue with this is that the sun is BAD, but the more compliments I got, the darker I wanted to be.
Sadly, this has caught up with me now I am hitting 30.

Whilst I have always been able to use any body spf (I have tried many but always go back to the Boots Soltan range, as there are very few highstreet suncreams that have 5 star UVA protection as well as stable photofilters (believe it or not, some chemical filters can actually degrade on exposure to sunlight, so what started as an SPF 30 can rapidly become an SPF 0). Similarly, the range works well for my heat rash prone skin, and is generally hypoallergenic.

I also love the different formulations including the “once” range. I do however take this with a pinch of salt and always reapply every few hours because even if you do not towel down after swimming, you are probably moving around on your towel, or resting your book somewhere and rubbing off the protection.

My face however is a different matter. I HATE putting suncream on my face. I can put up with the texture because, as a product obsessive I am used to perpetually being slightly sticky. What I cannot deal with is the eruption of bumps and spots that occur just a day after using it.
Thus it has become my mission to find a facial sunscreen that does not do this.

As I mentioned in my “wait that line wasn’t there yesterday” post  my research showed that physical filters were the way to go.

  1.           The formulations in which they are placed are generally designed for the face (because most people’s bodies can tolerate chemical filters/less elegant preparations) and therefore less likely to cause issues   
  2.       They provide superior UVA and UVB resistance, they are photo stable and they cause absolutely no irritation to the skin because they are made of minerals.
  3.       Most people are turning to physical filters because the standard SPF’s are causing skin issues – heat rash, sensitivity, acne, eczema etc

So my next quest was finding a good one.

I have tried, compared and taken photographs of 5 mineral based SPF’s and documented it for you. The photographs are EXTREMELY honest, taken in various lighting situations (including glaring sun, soz for squinting), with no photo editing so you can see exactly what they look like, because the issue with mineral filters is…they are very white when applied. This is fine if you are just in your back garden, or in fact very pale, but in order to be placed under make up, or not look like a ghost on the beach, this white cast needs to be minimal


ELTAMD: UV Clear Facial Sunscreen SPF 46 - For Skin Types Prone To Acne, Rosacea & Hyperpigmentation – Tinted

Initial application
Great. Really smooth. Surprisingly so. I imagine there is some silicone in here which makes it go on much nicer than any mineral sunscreen I have ever used.
No white cast at all. Tint is nice, the pigment concentration is low so is just enough to take away the white-ness of the mineral sunscreen but not enough to cover anything.

Sun exposure
No burning, no irritation
Water resistance not great – I went for a run in this and most had disappeared from my sweaty top lip before I got home. It does not claim to be water resistant so this is fine
Otherwise, gives a matte appearance to the skin

Reapplication
Reapplies very easily. No pilling, no build up. On my roaccutane ravaged skin however, it did get a bit dry by the end of the day so I would need a good moisturiser underneath.

Removal
Easy. No need to discuss further

Skin reaction
Absolutely none. No clogging, no spots.

Verdict
8/10 – tint could be a bit darker, would prefer it was pure mineral filter vs physical and chemical, but the chemical filter does not seem to cause me an issue at all







ELTAMD UV Pure Water-Resistant Face & Body Physical Sunscreen SPF 47

Initial application
Exceptionally smooth going on. Can barely feel it after a few minutes. Goes on very white but it disappears fast and just gives a slightly dulled down/mattified appearance to the skin

Sun exposure
No burning, no irritation
Water resistance very good. I have not swum in this but even if I did, I would reapply afterwards. No movement on sweating either.

Reapplication
Reapplies very easily. No pilling, no build up. No increase white cast

Removal
Easy. No need to discuss further

Skin reaction
Absolutely none. No clogging, no spots.

Verdict
9.5/10 – This is as close to perfect as I could find. It is just slightly drying but I am happy with this because the alternative is an overly moisturising oily formula which will lead to breakouts.







SkinCeuticals Protect Sheer Mineral UV Defense SPF 50

Initial application

White. White white white. This does dry down slightly after 10 minutes but will still look white. If you are pale then that’s fine but anything darker than Snow White will cause an issue.

Sun exposure
No burning, no irritation
Water resistance poor. Unfortunately as you sweat the white pigment rolls away with it. Also, if you swim, wipe your face then reapply, it will leave a white build up around the eyes where you haven’t quite removed it before reapplying.

Reapplication
Reapplies easily but you get more white cast as you go

Removal
Still easier to remove than chemical sunscreen but not as easy as the EltaMD. I had to use an oil cleanser just to be sure.

Skin reaction
Absolutely none. No clogging, no spots.

Verdict
6/10 – No breakouts and no burning but you do look like a ghost. Fine for in the garden, not so much for anything else. Make up does apply nicely over it as it leaves a smooth base but it may affect the colour of your foundation.
Immediately after application - inside


Immediately after application - sunlight view





Avene Tinted Mineral Fluid SPF50+
https://www.escentual.com/avene/avene0131/

This is about a high of an SPF that you can buy in the UK. Due to EU regulations our products cannot be labelled as more than an SPF of 50 even if they may provide more. This is because, theoretically, the difference in sun protection between a 50 and a 70 is so minimal that it may appear like false advertising.

Initial application
Great! Not as smooth as the eltaMD products so I had to use a little more than normal. Tint is great, it is undetectable in fact even on my skin with a slight tan, it just looks a bit more matte.

Sun exposure
No burning, no irritation
Water resistance seems OK but would definitely need reapplication on serious sweating

Reapplication
Reapplies easily

Removal
Seems easy enough to remove

Skin reaction
Absolutely none. No clogging, no spots.

Verdict
8/10 – No breakouts and no burning but not as nice to apply or reapply as the EltaMD. Tint is good and slightly more pigmented than the EltaMD






Bioderma Photoderm Mineral Spray SPF50+

Initial application
Very smooth but VERY white. Whiter than any of the other mineral SPF’s I have ever used. You could definitely use less but then are you getting the proper coverage?

Sun exposure
No irritation
Water resistance is great

Reapplication
You will look like actual Casper the ghost. Far worse than the SkinCeuticals. So comical in fact I didn’t bother taking a photo

Removal
Pain in the arse. Had to do a double oil cleanse and then my regular Cereve with my Foreo
Skin reaction

This feels so lovely and silky on the skin but would definitely cause spots and clogged pores on me as it is a much heavier, stickier formulation. This would be lovely for a drier skin as it goes on super smooth. No fragrance and no nasties, but not oil free

Verdict
3/10 – Will break me out, hard to get off and BEYOND white.  It is also worth noting, this made my fringe feel DISGUSTING, unlike all the other mineral sunscreens which actually act a bit like dry shampoo!





Tuesday 24 April 2018

6 weeks Roaccutane (Accutane/Isotretinoin) free

Thought I would do a little update for you now it has been about 6 weeks since finishing my Roaccutane. This seems to be the agreed amount of time that the drug takes to clear from the body (although some of the side effects can last much longer, all of it has been metabolised and cleared now).

Skin dryness
Dryness has almost completely gone. My lips were back to normal by week 2 and any dry patches of skin from using products that were too strong have now completely gone. My skin is still combination.

Skin reactivity
The ferocity to which my skin reacts to products seems much reduced. My tolerance to retinols and acids has definitely increased.
I have not noticed and increase chance of burning from the sun, however I am being VERY careful - hat, sunglasses and SPF 50.

Joints
Knee pain has almost completely gone. I was lucky to never suffer from back pain but did have a significant amount of neck and shoulder pain and this reduced a lot, especially between weeks 4 and 6. My foot and ankle pain/ache is the only thing that is remaining but that has also reduced significantly.

Spots
I got my first spot around 4 weeks after being off Roaccutane. Turns out I was also due on my period! This came and went within a few days. Panic over. The issue with Roaccutane now is that people are put on it for much less severe acne than they were 10 years ago. If you have full face, severe, cystic acne, then an improvement for you will be much different to someone who gets 5 or 6 spots a month.
Because the 5-6 spots a month group are now being put on Roaccutane, the expectations for an "acne cure" are much higher, but this is not the reality. You will still get spots however they should be less frequent and less severe. 


The pictures below are me now. No make up. No filter (as always).

As those who work in hospital or in a dental surgery will know, there is no more honest, or less flattering light, than what they use in a dental surgery or hospital. I thought this would be a good light to show you my skin because you will see it, warts (/scars) and all. 


My skin care routine

AM


  1.       Non foaming cleanser (I used antibacterial, anti acne, anti anything good for the skin    cleansers for years until a dermatologist told me this is the worst thing you can do!) I use Cereve hydrating cleanser, or cetaphil. Both super cheap from Boots
  2.       Hyaluronic acid serum – I use the one from - The Ordinary hyaluronic acid and B5 serum  
  3.       La roche posay effaclar duo plus – this has salicylic acid, niacinamide and benzoyl        peroxide which are the 3 best acne and pigment fighting ingredients
  4.       Skinoren 20% azelaic acid cream - just around my chin and lips where I have comedones and pigmentation
  5.       Oil free moisturiser – this is key. I have a post on my blog about my faves and I tend to rotate between them. I mix this with the ordinary 100% L ascorbic acid powder (which is pure vitamin c). This will work on the marks left behind by the spots, it also acts as a bit of a skin protector from UV
  6.       SPF in summer (if you spend any amount of time outdoors or in the car in daylight you will need this year round, I spend most my time in a basement of a hospital with no natural daylight). I’m trying a few new ones out at the moment and will be doing a blog post soon


PM:
1    
    1.        Cereve cleanser with my Foreo Luna mini
    2.        AHA/BHA toner (unless I am about to follow with a stronger retinol) 
    3.        Niacinamide serum (I love The Ordinary 10% niacinamide and zinc serum )
    4.        Oil free moisturiser if I am using a higher strength retinol to buffer
    5.        Retinol. I have a post on my blog (the “wait that line wasn’t there yesterday) with my       favourites. I had to drop down the The Ordinary Granactive retinoid 2% due to my skin    reactivity but am now up to 0.5% retinol in Neostrata Retinol NAG


Monday 23 April 2018

Are your hair care products causing your acne?



As a little follow on from my hair care post, I thought it was worth mentioning that acne, particularly around the edges of the face, the jawline, and body acne (bacne) can be caused by hair products.

I found myself last year with a constant crop of little bumpy spots on the left side of my neck and a few more on my back. It made no sense as my face was clear. It was only as I stood in the showering pondering this issue, that I realised, whenever I apply hair conditioner, I do it by pulling my hair to one side (the left). Similarly, I plait my hair when in work (far less breakage than tying in a pony tail, and far more comfortable than in a clip or a bun), and the tail of the bun lies on the left side of my neck.

I also found that when I was allowing my conditioner to sink in, and then wash it out, my hair was always sat along my back.

So…easy tips for eliminating yet ANOTHER potential cause of your acne:
  1. When applying conditioner, flip your head forwards, or lean so it is well out of the way of having any contact with your skin
  2. If you are allowing your conditioner to soak into your hair, put a shower cap on, or at least tie or clip your hair out of the way. This applies to men too if your hair is long enough to require conditioner.
  3.  Try not to lean forwards while conditioner is sitting in the hair as this can allow it to drip down the face
  4.  Always cleanse your face and body  once all the hair faffing is finished. This will ensure that no product which may have come into contact with your skin is left on there
  5. Also consider your shampoo and styling products. I have taught you to avoid SLS, foaming agents, fragrance etc in your skin care, however if shampoo or styling products are used with these products, and you are reactive to them, then an acne flare up is inevitable.
  6.  If you have a fringe, apply your skincare before you dry it. I say this because once your fringe is dry and styled, you will be very hesitant to mess it up by applying skincare under it. This means that a large portion of your face will be missing out on the skin care ingredients it needs. I also use copious amounts of dry shampoo so that oil from my hair is not transferred to my forehead and vice versa    
  7. Once you are out the shower, give your body a spritz with an anti-bacterial zinc spray – my favourite is La Roche PosaySerozinc
  8. When applying heat protection/anti frizz spray to wet hair, ensure your body is covered, either use a towel or do when clothed. This will mean none of the product gets on your body causing irritation
  9. If using styling and finishing products - especially those which give shine or have oil, try just to apply to the outside of the hair, rather than the bits that come into contact with your neck/back. Smooth over the top layer and leave the underneath - which no one can see anyway!
  10. Finally, if you finish with a hair spray, or anti humidity spray, cover your face. It may seem silly, but especially if you have a fringe which you desperately want to stay in place, or stay straight, a lot of the product will end up on your skin. I literally hold a towel close to my face, flip my fringe over, and then spray. Your skin will thank you for the extra 30 seconds of work. You can also scare your boyfriend/family members in the process



Friday 20 April 2018

Hair care 101 and industry secrets





I was asked the other day if I could go through some hair care products and discuss what is worth the hype and what really isn't.

As with 99% of the beauty industry, most products sell through hype and advertising rather than by repeat purchase due to effectiveness. 

I have long hair which generally behaves itself but I put it through a lot. I swim 5 times a week (did I mention that already? not like I talk about it much....) and use a lot of heat styling. My hair is fairly fine but I have a lot of it. When it dries it looks like a sad mop and while it would not be classed as curly, it certainly wouldn't be able to dry on its own and look nice. Think straight with kinks. 

So before we begin with products, I will give you a bit of background info about the industry, which applies to skincare, make up and fragrance as well as hair care. If you are a beauty buff, you will probably know this already so scroll down to the good bit, if not, read on.

Pretty much all main stream designer brands get their money from larger brands rather than private funding. There are really only 7 companies who produce our main stream beauty products:

Company
Who they own
L’oreal

Procter and Gamble
Between these 2, you have covered pretty much any brand you will find in Boots (the drugstore) – including Maybelline, Covergirl, max factor, Garnier, Olay, and my beloved La Roche Posay.

They also own some of the higher end skincare brands like Decleor , Skinceuticals and SkII

In terms of hair, they also own Garnier, Clairol, Pantene, Head and Shoulders, Herbal Essences and even the higher end Kerastase, Pureology and Redken

Interestingly they also own designer brands Saint Laurent, Armani, Diesel and Ralph Lauren
Johnson and Johnson
Neutrogena and Aveeno
Beiersdorf
Again, good old drugstore skincare brands like Nivea and Eucerin but also, LA PRIARIE
Unilever
Dove, Ponds, Vaseline, Simple

For hair: Alberto Balsam, TreSemme, VO5 and Toni and Guy

Interestingly they also own Pot Noodle.
Louis Vuitton-Mote Hennessy
Shiseido
Unsurprisingly these 2 companies own the more high end designer brands like Dior, Guerlain and Givenchy as well as stuff for us mere mortals from Avene

They also own make up brands Benefit, Make up forever , Cle de peau, NARS, BareMinerals, Laura Mercier and Jean Paul Gaultier cosmetics


Now the reason for giving you this information is that the big mother companies will spend their money finding new ingredients or cutting edge formulations. They then release them in products from the higher end brands with the big launch. Once this hype dies down, the ingredient, formulation or product trickles down into the lower end brands and finally ends up in our drugstores so that the owner company can make the most money from the research and discovery.

Haircare example:
L’oreal owns Kerastase. Kerastase bring out their Elixir Ultime Hair Oil (41). It’s wonderful, it’s very fancy.

A few months later L’oreal Professional bring out their Mythic Hair Oil (£17)

Finally, L’oreal Paris (the brand you find in Boots or the supermarket) brings out Elvive Extraordinary Oil (£8)

They are pretty much all in similar bottles, with a similar fragrance and do the same thing. Yes the Kerastase has some more expensive essential oils and probably less silicone, but you get my drift.

Make up example:
Armani brought out Maestro fluid foundation, a few months later, L’oreal bring out Nude Magique. 

Same pigment-in-liquidy-formula that you have to shake then apply. A bit like Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua.

My point is, pick a product from a big brand, spend a little and you’ll more than likely be getting the same effect as the higher end one.

So now onto my picks. Get ready for one of my infamous tables:

Product
Why I like it
Paul Mitchell Shampoo 3


As you can see, I have the massive size which means I must like it because I am Fickle (capital F) with products.
For years I was trying to battle my dry, chlorine damaged hair which almost felt synthetic – like barbie hair- with moisturising masks. It wasn’t until a hair dresser pointed out that the masks or conditioners cannot penetrate through the layer of pollutants on the hair in order to treat it. In my case the issue was chlorine, but dry shampoo or hair finishing products will also be culprits
This contains a chelating agent (fancy term for something that causes stuff to stick to it, like a magnet) which binds the chlorine or pollutant, so when you wash out the shampoo, out comes the impurity too.
As soon as I started using this, within a week my hair was back to normal. Genius
Twice weekly shampoo:

Pureology Strength Cure Shampoo and Conditioner


As I mentioned, my hair is needy because of what I do to it, rather that it’s natural condition being frizzy. It has a propensity to be flat and so whilst it needs mega treatment and TLC it cannot be done with anything too heavy. These products use more of a protein based healing system rather than just adding oil or weight.
Due to the price of these products, I only use them once or twice a week, for the other days I use a variety of different shampoos
All the other days shampoo: Pick any moisturising one from Garnier or L’oreal

I like this one – Garnier Coconut Oil & Cocoa Butter


Honestly, this shampoo does not really matter. I only use it because the Paul Mitchell is quite drying and when I’m being speedy in the changing room, I just whack this second one on to ensure I have removed all the swimming mask I put on before I dive in the pool
Hair mask

Macadamia and coconut milk hair mask for dry hair
SMELLS AMAZING

L'Oreal Elvive Extraordinary Oil Very Dry Hair Mask

http://www.boots.com/loreal-extraordinary-oil-mask-pot-300ml-10183201#z4t2lcWWtKq0asTj.99
On days when I don’t use the pureology – which is all the time – I use a hair mask as a conditioner. I only use it in the mid lengths and ends, and if you had limper hair, you could just run it on the ends of very wet hair. If your hair is frizzier, squeeze or towel out as much water as you can before applying so it is less diluted. Then leave it on for as long as possible.
My logic is, if you only have a minute to leave your conditioner in, surely it is better to do it in the most concentrated moisture form rather than with a bog standard conditioner.


Heat protection spray


TRESemmé Heat Defence Spray


VO5 Heat Protect Spray


Again, all of these are much of a muchness so the things I look for are:
              1) That I don’t hate the scent 
              2) That the spray distributes the product in a                     mist, not in a volcanic eruption leaving one                   part of your hair soaked and the other dry

Spray in, brush through, job done.

Lee Stafford Dehumidifier Spray


If your hair is frizzy, or like me, you have a fringe which when met with humidity does all kinds of strange things,  this is a great product. If you have fine hair and have curled it, I wouldn’t use this as it can make it drop, but for straight or naturally curly hair its amazing, or just using on the fringe or side of the hair.
Garnier Ultimate Blends Coconut Hair Oil for Frizzy Hair


L'Oreal Elvive Extraordinary Hair Oil All Hair Types

http://www.boots.com/loreal-elvive-extraordinary-oil-100ml-10140048#zV3J70rSVTC0uWo0.99
Having tried all the aforementioned hair oils, from Kerastase to L’oreal professional to Morroccan oil, I genuinely find this to be the best finishing product.

I do not need to get extra moisture from my finishing products as I do that with good masks etc, what I need is something to de frizz or calm. I use this every time I have curled my hair to take away the poodly look, seal the ends, smooth and give shine.

If you really do want a more oil based product I also like the bogstandard L’oreal oil

Pre swim hair mask

Boots Sun Swim and Gym Protection Masque for Normal Hair

http://www.boots.com/boots-sun-swim-and-gym-protection-masque-for-normal-hair-150ml-10140075
I have used this religiously for about 3 years. Before this I had tried everything to try and protect my hair whilst swimming. Leave in conditioners just washed out as soon as the water leaked under my swimming cap (please note, swimming caps are to streamline and keep your hair out the way not to keep your hair dry), coconut oil was a pain in the arse to apply and even more of a pain to fully wash out.

This product is cheap, it is easy to apply, it stays in during swimming, it washes out easily, and whilst it provides no real conditioning effects in itself, it stops the chlorine penetrating the hair and more importantly does not cause any spots in areas of the skin it might touch like my forehead etc.
Its also a great one to use whilst on holiday too

Dry shampoo

Batiste 2 in 1 Invisible Dry Shampoo & Conditioner Cocoa and Cashmere


Batiste Dry Shampoo Tropical - Coconut & Exotic


Colab dry shampoo spray paradise and Colab dry shampoo spray hype galactic are my favourite scents

http://www.boots.com/colab-dry-shampoo-hype-galactic-200ml-10238530
Dry shampoo is an absolute must. Whilst I wash my hair after swimming, I definitely do not wash it after the gym, in an effort to try and preserve the health of my hair. For those days, or in fact for the days when I have washed my hair in the morning but need a refresh later on (aka my fringe looks like an oil slick), I use dry shampoo, and a lot of it. In fact, I get the huge size because my fringe needs topping up about 5 times a day

I have tried them all, from cheap to expensive and I stand by the fact that batiste is the best. The smells are great, and they absorb oil. Yes they leave a white patch if you spray too close so:
1)      Hold the can a good distance away from your hair before spraying
2)      Do not do a prolonged spray, literally blast and move on
3)      Ideally leave this in for as long as you can before brushing it out, after the gym, I spray in while I shower etc then quickly blast my hair with a hairdryer to distribute it through and dry the roots. This also gives LOADS of volume.

I do enjoy the smell of the Colab dry shampoos but they really do not have the oil absorbing power that I need due to my shiny-like-butter forehead. They are however great if your hair is too clean to do an up do, or your curls have come out too perfect. Even in this case, I tend to use the batiste dry shampoo and conditioner, which can be used all through the hair not just the roots, and the cocoa one smells great
Wet brush


Tangle Teezer Limited Edition -Skinny Dip Palm Flamingo

http://www.boots.com/tangle-teezer-limited-edition-skinny-dip-palm-flamingo-10228646#GKpWDfX2oriIFQDC.99
This brush was originally designed for people with tangly hair, however I cannot think of a hair type that would not benefit from this. The majority of damage and breakage to hair happens when wet because we all use a bog standard hair brush or worse, yank through it with our hands before rubbing the hell out of it with a towel.
I got this brush as a promotional offer with something I bought from look fantastic so thought I would give it a go but was quite happy with my tangle teezer.

I was wrong. The ease with which this goes through my long tangled hair is amazing. I also use it on dry hair, it is especially good for brushing out curls without destroying them. The amount of hair that snaps is significantly less and it feels so much nicer. It is also designed to get wet, so you can brush through conditioner and rinse the brush clean with no issues. They also do a special brush for people with hair extensions.

I still use a tangle teezer in my swim bag because its light, its really easy to clean as it is pure plastic and it is cheaper and a bit smaller, however when that goes, it will be replaced with another wet brush.