The eyes are the windows to...your wallet AND bonus Boots No7 line correcting booster serum review

Today I will discuss all things eyes. There are lot of confusions around eye cream, what it is meant to do, how to apply it etc etc so I will attempt to clear them up.

The difference between the skin around the eye and the rest of the face is that the skin is much thinner because technically it is not designed to take the same amount of wear and tear as the rest of the face. It has far fewer oil glands which are required to give a protective barrier to the skin and keep it supple under the tension of movement, and it has significantly less collagen and elastin fibres. This area also moves a lot more than other areas of the face.

We blink around 10,000 times a day and every facial expression will affect the eye area in some way.

Combine that with the fact that due to the thin skin, the eye area is more sensitive to product, more prone to inflammation and allows the underlying blood vessels to show through more than on the rest of the face, and you feel like you’re fighting a losing battle with anti-ageing.

For this reason, cosmetic and skin companies brought out a million and one different eye creams all promising to improve the look of lines and dark circles (note the marketing speak, “improve the look”, completely unquantifiable)

The only way you will see a genuine reduction in lines and wrinkles around the eye area is Botox. If you stop the muscles moving, you decrease the tension on the skin and you reduce the amount of times the skin creases due to expression. This is great for those who want to do Botox, but many do not, or cannot. Similarly, Botox can only be applied in certain areas around the eye (no one wants a paralysed eyeball) and the skin will still crease due to movement of the cheeks and other muscles, which cannot be prevented.

Dark Circles

There are 4 reasons for dark circles, and they all look slightly different.  

1 is simply due to the skin being thinner and the area being highly vascularised (lots of blood vessels). This gives a blue ish appearance to the under eye area. Lack of sleep or illness will increase the appearance of this due to a change in the skin texture, just as lack of sleep makes your skin generally lack lustre.

The extent of the dark circle also depends on the shape of the eye socket and the level of fat deposit around the eye. If you have deep socketed eyes, there is more chance for shadowing and this can also present as a dark circle. 

Similarly, if you have a smooth and even layer of fat around the eye, you will have less of a dark circle. However if this fat moves or lessons in some areas more than others – which it does with age, the a puffy/bag appearance is created. The contrast between the raised area and flat area of skin beyond it will create a shadow.

 The final reason can be due to pigmentation of the under eye area. This is more common in darker skin tones and is often inherited genetically but can also be due to poor sun protection leading to sun damage and pigmentation in the area

You can tell if this is the case by gentle pulling the under eye skin down. 

If the colour moves with it i.e. onto the top of the cheek bone, then you know that the skin is pigmented.

If the colour does not move, i.e. the skin which appeared dark when in the under-eye area, is now a normal colour when over the cheek bone, you know that the darkness is caused by the visible blood vessels rather than pigmentation. 

Pigmentation can be improved with carious products including vitamin C (my favourite is the Ordinary Vitamin C powder which can simply be mixed into your eye cream or serum), and the brilliant iS Clinical White Lightening Complex and NeoStrata Enlighten Pigment Lightening Gel, Pricey, but they work. Cheaper alternative: Alpha H Absolute Eye Complex

Of course, you MUST take your SPF up to the lashline. If it causes sensitivity then look out for my post on SPF's for picky skin, coming soon

My top tips:

    1) Take MOST of your serums up to the lash line AND over the lid. Droopy, wrinkled lids will counteract any good work you have done on the under-eye area. The proviso with this statement is that certain active ingredients may cause problems if applied too close to the eye area.

      Retinol, for example, which can cause dryness initially at least, if applied to the under-eye area can actually make them look worse before they look better. However, retinol travels so even if you avoid the eye area, it will work its way up anyway. Personally, I apply my retinol serums all around the eye area. With the stronger ones I put a layer of moisturiser underneath to protect. This is especially important if you are using retinol (vs retinoids) or prescription strength retinoic acid.
Similarly, vitamin c can tingle so go carefully

          Hyaluronic acid, niacinamide etc are fantastic around the eyes

   2) You need to have different products for de-puffing and hydrating. These 2 problems require complete opposite tactics to deal with them.

Puffiness is a build-up of fluid around the eye area. It can be caused by: 

·     occlusive skin care e.g. creams that are too rich a reaction to something – either topical, or things like hay feverfood – salty food, rich food, alcohol will all cause puffiness

·    having a cold/being ill and run down

·    for some people even lying too flat in bed can cause it

In order to solve puffiness, you need to remove the fluid from the area. I would do this in 2 ways

     

•       Use a caffeine based eye product – there are loads of great ones but I love The Ordinary version (bear in mind, this draws moisture out of the eye, so use this, brush your teeth/do your hair then apply something moisturising over the top
•       move fluid away from the area via lymphatic drainage massage. This involves gentle tapping under the eye moving from the inner corner of the eye towards the temples. You can also apply gentle pressure under the brow bone at the beginning of the eyebrow and press along the brow bone out towards the temples
•       I also use my foreo luna mini device to help drain as the vibration will stimulate flow better than any finger tapping. I hold it gently on the inner part of the under-eye area and move out towards the temple, then use it to lift up the arch of the brow and hold it there. This also gives you a little brow/eye lift.

       3)   Eye creams – choose these carefully. Do not expect them to do anything miraculous. I purely use one because my eye area is much drier than the rest of my face, so I want an extra layer there before I apply an oil free moisturiser. They will not anti-age better than the serums or moisturisers you use on the rest of your face however they can decrease dehydration and allow make up to sit far nicer than on dry crepey skin.

  

      Here are some I like:

       Eucerin Anti-Ageing Hyaluron FillerEye Treatment – I have re-purchased this many many times. It doesn’t sting, it moisturises, it plumps, make up applies over it. Nuff said.

       nspa Smoothing Eye Cream – I bought this because I had run out of eye cream and was in Asda, so this was the first thing I grabbed. It does nothing special however it hydrates for the full day, concealer goes over it incredibly well, and after having my eye lashes tinted whilst on roaccutane where the skin under my eyes was red raw, this was the only thing that calmed it and didn’t sting…AT ALL.

      Olay Pro-Retinol Eye treatment. Use this if you are scared of using retinol too close to the eyes, or are on a stronger retinol product and can’t deal with the dry flaking under eye area for the 3-6 months it takes to settle

      No7 Laboratories LINE CORRECTING Booster Serum - My new favourite. This is not designed as an eye cream but it IS designed to target areas with more lines/dehydration/signs of ageing. I can honestly say that this does work. If you have deep wrinkles it will soften them slightly, if you have signs of dehydration under the eye (think cakey concealer) it will definitely improve the plumpness and any fine lines will definitely be reduced. It is very liquidy, it can be mixed in with other eye creams, serums or moisturisers but I use it neat and it works amazingly. I do not feel the need to apply anything on top and I am usually a richer-the-better under the eye kinda gal. 

Do not waste your money on expensive eye creams. There is nothing extra they can add to make it worth it. The honest truth is that no cream will ever get rid of the dark circle, all you can hope to do is strengthen, plump and fortify the skin over the top so 1) the veins underneath are less visible because the skin is slightly less sunken when plumped and hydrated and 2) the skin is smooth so bounces light by itself (like an inbuilt Touche Eclat).

      Concealer is your best friend.

   

      My dark circles are bad enough to require 2 concealers.

      I stay away from heavy formulas under the eye like Laura Mercier secret camouflage/Tarte shape tape as these are absolutely no good unless you do not have a single line or wrinkle under your eye and if they cake or crease this will just make the area look heavily made up, which defeats the object of what you are doing.

      Instead I apply a high coverage liquid concealer – Estee Lauder Double Wear concealer is my favourite. This just goes in the dark areas – the blueish bit from the inner corner of the eye to the nose, and the little dark area in the outer corner.

      I then apply a light reflective concealer – I prefer a combination of light reflection and coverage vs the straight up highlighting pens like YSL Touche Eclat or Dior flash.

      My favourites are Clinique airbrush concealer 

      Maybelline Dream Touch Lumi Concealer 

      Maybelline Age Rewind Eye Concealer in light OR neutraliser.

      If all else fails, camouflage with mascara or eye make up

      On days where I’m going more natural or can’t be bothered, I love Max Factor Mastertouch Concealer

      Hope this helps!

      Picture credits.

   

      https://www.tmbcosmeticsurgery.com/tmb-truly-modern-blog/why-do-i-look-tired-dark-under-eye-circles-why-we-get-them-and-how-to-get-rid-of-them/

      http://www.shoreaesthetics.com/tear-trough-treatment-dark-circles-under-eyes/

      https://www.charlottaeve.com/2017/11/09/howtodeepseteyesmakeup/

Real life mask loves...don't expect instagram worthy photos.

Let's talk masks.

Everyone from Aldi to Armani now make face masks. It is a bit of a minefield.
Luckily for you, I have tried A LOT. (I've tried a lot of everything, much to the disgust of my bank balance)

Here is a run down of my faves and my top tips, as well as some that really are not worth the hype/money

Sanctuary Spa 5Minute Thermal Detox Mask

This is without doubt, the best clay/charcoal mask I have used. You can use this on larger areas with blocked pores or literally to spot treat.

This is amazing for those cystic spots that will not come to the surface. I also swear by my patented salt water technique for drawing them out. See below.

1. Boil a kettle, rinse some water around the mug to warm it. This helps because the colder the mug, the quicker the hot water will cool and you will have to get up and down to refill.
2. Fill the mug half full and add a teaspoon of salt
3. Wrap a cotton wool pad (or even better, use a cotton ball) around a teaspoon.
4. Dunk in the hot water
5. Test the heat – you don’t want to burn your face
6. Rest the hot salt water cotton on the spot
7. Dip and return to the face for around 10 to 15 minutes. Make sure the water stays hot.
8. The area should go red, you are attempting to boost circulation to get the spot to surface

This mask is also great for when you pop a spot (naughty, but sometimes must be done) and need to draw out any remnants and calm it all down.

Dupe for: GLAMGLOW SUPERMUD MASK. Much cheaper. Much less irritating (the tingle factor in the Glamglow is completely unnecessary. If you want salicylic acid, apply it directly in another form. The combination is too drying.

PLEASE DO NOT USE PORE STRIPS/THOSE GOD AWFUL PEEL OFF MASKS ON FACEBOOK. All you will do is worsen acne, trigger rosacea, irritate and flake dry skin and cause broken capillaries. It is not worth it. If you have that many black heads that ca be pulled out by effectively, liquid sellotape, then you need to be looking at your cleansing and serum routine. 

Murad Intensive-C Radiance Peel

This is the most milk form of acid peel that I will mention here. I used this religiously throughout my roaccutane treatment. The flaky skin needed to be removed somehow, my stronger masks made my face fall off and scrubs just led to broken capillaries.

Ingredients:

No parabens, sulfates or synthetic fragrances

Glycolic acid

Some nice oils (low down the list) to buffer

Hyaluronic acid

Vitamin C – please note, I do not believe that vitamin C in mask form will give any results beyond the fact that it is slightly acidic. In order for vitamin C to be active, it either needs to sit on the surface of the skin to provide antioxidant protection, or absorb into the skin to boost collagen. It will not do either of these things in 10 minutes. It is also light sensitive so when stored in a clear tube it probably wont be active.

This will leave your face GLOWING, resurfaced but not irritated. Great for sensitive skin

Alpha H Smoothingand Perfecting Mask

Out of all of them, this might be my favourite mask.

Spotty? Amazing. Dry? Amazing. Dull? Amazing.

Stronger than the Murad mask (15% glycolic acid) but still somehow not irritating. This will leave you with glass/baby-bum skin

Love

The Ordinary AHABHA peeling solution

Only use this if you have rhino skin.

This has a whopping 30% AHA - Glycolic (note this is first on the ingredients list) Lactic Acid, Tartaric Acid and Citric Acid

 and….2% BHA (2% BHA is the max the EU will allow us to use in cosmetic products),

as well as some hyaluronic acid

It is a beetroot colour and very liquid. Apply a few drops at a time otherwise it will drip all over your sink/bathroom floor. It has this colour so people don’t leave it on like a serum. If you did this, you would probably have some exposed bone when you next looked in the mirror.

This is amazing for pigmentation, dry skin, dull skin, blocked pores, blackheads, spots and scarring. If you want results, this will give them to you.

Work your way up slowly. You’ve been warned

One to avoid: GLAMGLOW YOUTHMUD™ Tinglexfoliate Treatment. This contains absolutely no AHA’s or BHA’s and no proven resurfacing ingredients other than pumice and silica which are physical exfoliants (you know my feelings on these). There are however a LOT of ingredients designed to piss off your skin ( tingle means its working right? WRONG)

Just don’t bother.

Ren Evercalm UltraComforting Rescue Mask

This is great for everyone. Roaccutane burns, over use of said The Ordinary product above, sunburn, dryness etc. This mask will fix it. It is very rich but it is removed so I do not have such an issue with leaving it on my skin. This is amazing to apply overnight, or to apply in the afternoon before an evening event. Your make up goes on like a dream.

Hydrating, soothing and calming. Also amazing on a plane as it leaves no visible residue but you will arrive hydrated

Albatrellus Extract, Arnica, Algae, oils and probiotics tackle redness, inflammation, and relieve irritation and itchiness. There are no chemical nasties in here. It almost leaves a film over the skin, so if you are the kind of dry where you feel you continuously want to apply moisturiser – this will be perfect and can just be dabbed off with a tissue before makeup.  However, if you are combination, or have irritation from products or medications, this is also perfect, just cleanse off and continue your skin care routine.

Home made masks

Yes you can buy clay. But when my beloved Sanctuary mask can be picked up at boots for under a tenner – why bother? The mess and frustration will not compensate for the cheapness of buying your own bag of clay.

“Crushing aspirin to make salicylic acid”. Yes aspirin is a version of salicylic acid. However it is not in the right pH to create a version that will have any effect when put on your skin. Plus mixing it with water – which is the only way you can apply – will make a complete mess, and destabilise the product. The ordinary has a salicylic acid solution which is a fiver, and their AHA BHA mask is also a similar price.

Turmeric. Turmeric has indeed been shown to have anti inflammatory properties but not when applied topically. Put it in your cooking not on your face

“Natural alternatives to retinol”. If retinol was not such a buzz word at the moment, no one would be claiming. What they mean is “this product might help resurface or moisturise the skin”. Retinol is the only product that can actually boost turnover of skin cells and make them act like younger versions of themselves.

“Orange juice is the best source of vitamin C”. No. Just no. If you wish to burn your face/apply a lot of sugar to it then go ahead. In order for vitamin C to act on the skin it ideally needs to be in the form of ascorbic acid. This needs to be stabilised and pH balanced in order to work. Buy a vitamin C serum or The Ordinary vitamin C powder instead. The same applies for putting lemon juice on your face. Yes it is acidic but not in a form that will do any true resurfacing, it will just make you sticky (at best) or burn you.

“Glycolic acid comes from cane sugar – why can’t I just use that”. If this was the case, all the leading beauty companies would start sticking sugar in their products. It would be far cheaper and easier. You will, again, end up with a sticky face that will be a nightmare to cleanse, and will get no true glycolic acid resurfacing because it is not in the right form. Sugar is not glycolic acid. It is sugar.

Avocado - yes this provides lots of nice oils and fats, of all the home made options this offends me the least. However if you can afford to buy avocados purely to mash, put on your face and wash down the sink, then you can afford a more advanced and proven formula. 

Just buy a tried, dermatologically tested, stable, pH balanced, regulated mask. You do not have to spend a fortune (although you can if you want to). 

You can buy most of these from lookfantastic, who I have ordered from for YEARS and they have never failed me. My other new fave site for more luxury items is Cultbeauty.