Wednesday, 25 April 2018

SPF review - mineral(ish) wonders for sensitive and acne prone skin



Hi. My name is Michelle, and I am a tan-aholic.

I love being tanned. I think the issue stems from the fact that summer, when I have a glow and some colour, is the only time I ever receive a compliment (get out the tiny violins). My tan is something people envied and aimed to achieve (mostly resulting in my boyfriend looking like a lobster).
The issue with this is that the sun is BAD, but the more compliments I got, the darker I wanted to be.
Sadly, this has caught up with me now I am hitting 30.

Whilst I have always been able to use any body spf (I have tried many but always go back to the Boots Soltan range, as there are very few highstreet suncreams that have 5 star UVA protection as well as stable photofilters (believe it or not, some chemical filters can actually degrade on exposure to sunlight, so what started as an SPF 30 can rapidly become an SPF 0). Similarly, the range works well for my heat rash prone skin, and is generally hypoallergenic.

I also love the different formulations including the “once” range. I do however take this with a pinch of salt and always reapply every few hours because even if you do not towel down after swimming, you are probably moving around on your towel, or resting your book somewhere and rubbing off the protection.

My face however is a different matter. I HATE putting suncream on my face. I can put up with the texture because, as a product obsessive I am used to perpetually being slightly sticky. What I cannot deal with is the eruption of bumps and spots that occur just a day after using it.
Thus it has become my mission to find a facial sunscreen that does not do this.

As I mentioned in my “wait that line wasn’t there yesterday” post  my research showed that physical filters were the way to go.

  1.           The formulations in which they are placed are generally designed for the face (because most people’s bodies can tolerate chemical filters/less elegant preparations) and therefore less likely to cause issues   
  2.       They provide superior UVA and UVB resistance, they are photo stable and they cause absolutely no irritation to the skin because they are made of minerals.
  3.       Most people are turning to physical filters because the standard SPF’s are causing skin issues – heat rash, sensitivity, acne, eczema etc

So my next quest was finding a good one.

I have tried, compared and taken photographs of 5 mineral based SPF’s and documented it for you. The photographs are EXTREMELY honest, taken in various lighting situations (including glaring sun, soz for squinting), with no photo editing so you can see exactly what they look like, because the issue with mineral filters is…they are very white when applied. This is fine if you are just in your back garden, or in fact very pale, but in order to be placed under make up, or not look like a ghost on the beach, this white cast needs to be minimal


ELTAMD: UV Clear Facial Sunscreen SPF 46 - For Skin Types Prone To Acne, Rosacea & Hyperpigmentation – Tinted

Initial application
Great. Really smooth. Surprisingly so. I imagine there is some silicone in here which makes it go on much nicer than any mineral sunscreen I have ever used.
No white cast at all. Tint is nice, the pigment concentration is low so is just enough to take away the white-ness of the mineral sunscreen but not enough to cover anything.

Sun exposure
No burning, no irritation
Water resistance not great – I went for a run in this and most had disappeared from my sweaty top lip before I got home. It does not claim to be water resistant so this is fine
Otherwise, gives a matte appearance to the skin

Reapplication
Reapplies very easily. No pilling, no build up. On my roaccutane ravaged skin however, it did get a bit dry by the end of the day so I would need a good moisturiser underneath.

Removal
Easy. No need to discuss further

Skin reaction
Absolutely none. No clogging, no spots.

Verdict
8/10 – tint could be a bit darker, would prefer it was pure mineral filter vs physical and chemical, but the chemical filter does not seem to cause me an issue at all







ELTAMD UV Pure Water-Resistant Face & Body Physical Sunscreen SPF 47

Initial application
Exceptionally smooth going on. Can barely feel it after a few minutes. Goes on very white but it disappears fast and just gives a slightly dulled down/mattified appearance to the skin

Sun exposure
No burning, no irritation
Water resistance very good. I have not swum in this but even if I did, I would reapply afterwards. No movement on sweating either.

Reapplication
Reapplies very easily. No pilling, no build up. No increase white cast

Removal
Easy. No need to discuss further

Skin reaction
Absolutely none. No clogging, no spots.

Verdict
9.5/10 – This is as close to perfect as I could find. It is just slightly drying but I am happy with this because the alternative is an overly moisturising oily formula which will lead to breakouts.







SkinCeuticals Protect Sheer Mineral UV Defense SPF 50

Initial application

White. White white white. This does dry down slightly after 10 minutes but will still look white. If you are pale then that’s fine but anything darker than Snow White will cause an issue.

Sun exposure
No burning, no irritation
Water resistance poor. Unfortunately as you sweat the white pigment rolls away with it. Also, if you swim, wipe your face then reapply, it will leave a white build up around the eyes where you haven’t quite removed it before reapplying.

Reapplication
Reapplies easily but you get more white cast as you go

Removal
Still easier to remove than chemical sunscreen but not as easy as the EltaMD. I had to use an oil cleanser just to be sure.

Skin reaction
Absolutely none. No clogging, no spots.

Verdict
6/10 – No breakouts and no burning but you do look like a ghost. Fine for in the garden, not so much for anything else. Make up does apply nicely over it as it leaves a smooth base but it may affect the colour of your foundation.
Immediately after application - inside


Immediately after application - sunlight view





Avene Tinted Mineral Fluid SPF50+
https://www.escentual.com/avene/avene0131/

This is about a high of an SPF that you can buy in the UK. Due to EU regulations our products cannot be labelled as more than an SPF of 50 even if they may provide more. This is because, theoretically, the difference in sun protection between a 50 and a 70 is so minimal that it may appear like false advertising.

Initial application
Great! Not as smooth as the eltaMD products so I had to use a little more than normal. Tint is great, it is undetectable in fact even on my skin with a slight tan, it just looks a bit more matte.

Sun exposure
No burning, no irritation
Water resistance seems OK but would definitely need reapplication on serious sweating

Reapplication
Reapplies easily

Removal
Seems easy enough to remove

Skin reaction
Absolutely none. No clogging, no spots.

Verdict
8/10 – No breakouts and no burning but not as nice to apply or reapply as the EltaMD. Tint is good and slightly more pigmented than the EltaMD






Bioderma Photoderm Mineral Spray SPF50+

Initial application
Very smooth but VERY white. Whiter than any of the other mineral SPF’s I have ever used. You could definitely use less but then are you getting the proper coverage?

Sun exposure
No irritation
Water resistance is great

Reapplication
You will look like actual Casper the ghost. Far worse than the SkinCeuticals. So comical in fact I didn’t bother taking a photo

Removal
Pain in the arse. Had to do a double oil cleanse and then my regular Cereve with my Foreo
Skin reaction

This feels so lovely and silky on the skin but would definitely cause spots and clogged pores on me as it is a much heavier, stickier formulation. This would be lovely for a drier skin as it goes on super smooth. No fragrance and no nasties, but not oil free

Verdict
3/10 – Will break me out, hard to get off and BEYOND white.  It is also worth noting, this made my fringe feel DISGUSTING, unlike all the other mineral sunscreens which actually act a bit like dry shampoo!





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