Fragrance faves and education

Perfume is my thing. Wearing a crap outfit? Hair not done? Make up looks like you've done it in the dark? All of these things are over looked if you smell expensive.

To me, "you smell amazing!" is in my ultimate desired-compliment list (second only to my ever longed-for "your skin looks amazing").

Fragrance can change a mood, attract attention, make a statement and will always fit no matter whether you can do up the button on your jeans or not.

There are various different types of fragrance and as a general rule I like my fragrance to last. The more oil in a fragrance, the stronger it is. This is why perfume lasts better on those with oily skin than those with dry, and also why fragrance smells different on different people.

• Parfum: a 15% to 30% strength will last up to 6 hours
• Eau de Parfum EDP: 8% to 15% strength will last 3 to 5 hours
• Eau de Toilette EDT: 4% to 8% strength will last 2 to 4 hours
• Eau de Cologne EDC: 3% to 5% strength will last up to 2 hours

So let's go through my favourites:

1) Creed Virgin Island Water

I have to get the large bottle of this because I douse myself in it every day in summer.

Top notes: Sicilian White Bergamot, Jamaican Lime, Sicilian Mandarin
Heart notes: Herbaceous notes, Ylang Ylang, Indian Jasmine
Base notes: Tonkin Musk, Tropical Woods

It basically smells like summer. A little malibu, with some lime at the top. The Creed fragrances are notoriously long lasting because of the way the fragrance is concentrated into a form called Millesime - this is basically on the more concentrated end of the Eau De Parfum scale.


2) Jo Malone Wood Sage and Sea Salt

This smells more like the sea itself, like you are sat on the coast in Italy, rather than sipping cocktails in Barbados. I absolutely love it. Definitely my favourite day time summer scent.

I was a huge fan of the Blue Agava and Cocao but they discontinued it, much to my annoyance. 

Whilst these are both Eau De Colognes, because Jo Malone use more oil and less filler than high street brands, I find this lasts just as long as the cologne intense or eau de toilettes. 


3) Jo Malone Oud and Bergamot Cologne intense

This combines the warm middle eastern woody scent of Oud with much crisper notes of Bergamot. I also love the Oud and Amber. This is definitely an evening fragrance (although I wear it any time) as it is a deeper more sexy scent. You will smell this on your clothes even when they have been in the wardrobe for weeks. 

4) Marc Jacobs Decadence

I first tried this at the airport on the way to America. When I came to put on my travel outfit again at the end of the trip, I could still smell it. I was hooked. If you can get over how annoying the bottle is (the lid gets removed immediately). This is strong and sexy but not in a middle eastern scent way. It is fruity and woody at the same time, and you can definitely smell the amber in it. 

5) Prada Eau de Parfum Amber 

Begamot, Patchouli and Sandlewood combine to make this a warm but fresh scent. I love it and have gone through several bottles


6) Penhaligons Halfeti

This is the type of fragrance that will get attention. It is usually the scent that Penhaligons pump out of their boutiques to draw people in. Centred around Turkish Rose (nothing like the granny rose fragrances you've smelt before) with jasmine, sandlewood and oud to complete the Far East inspiration . This is definitely a unisex fragrance and smells equally great on men or women.

7) Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess Eau Fraiche

This is the least concentrated of all the fragrances but will still linger if applied correctly (see below)
This is your cocktail sipping, sun lotion wearing fragrance that everyone loves. Not to be mistaken for the Eau De Parfum version which smells AWFUL.

8) Liz Earle Botanical Essence No 9 (eau de parfum)

This is initially a fresh and fruity scent with top notes of blackcurrant and bergamot combined with zesty but warm ginger, patchouli, vetiver and vanilla leave a warm and woody finish which makes this fragrance perfectly rounded. 

9) Jo Malone Orange Bitters Cologne

This has the lovely citrus scents to lift the fragrance but the base is still warm and woody with sandalwood and amber

10) Jardin de Fragonard Rose Ambre Eau De Parfum

This has a similar scent to the hideously expensive Tom Ford Santal Blush. Difficult to find the the UK but readily available in Europe. 
Again, this features my favourite bergamot, but combine with rose, patchouli, almond oil and vanilla which gives it a lovely warm scent. 

11) L'Occitane Roses et Reines Eau de Toilette

This smells like pure crushed rose petals. If you want a fragrance that doesn't smell like perfume but instead smells like freshly washed hair and clothes that have been dried in a summer breeze - this is the one 


My favourite "budget" buys

New Look Dusk Eau De Parfum

Smells exactly like Miss Dior. Fraction of the price and the scent lingers amazingly well

New Look Petal Crush Eau de Parfum

Has the same headiness as Lancome La Vie Est Belle. More of an evening scent but again, stays very well.

Zara Vibrant Leather Eau de Parfum 

Another woody strong scent based on Patchouli, leather and vanilla.


Application tips.

DO NOT spray on wrists then rub together. You crush the fragrance and change the scent
DO NOT spray directly on skin of the neck or chest. The high percentage of alcohol and other products not only directly dehydrate and damage the skin, but can be amplified in the presence on sunlight. You can see in fact on some people, some dark pigmentation around the neck (excluding melasma of course). This is where fragrance has been sprayed and sensitised the skin to sunlight over many years. Instead spray on the back of the neck, in the hair and on clothes.
DO NOT keep your fragrances in the bathroom or anywhere with direct sunlight. This will degrade the fragrance much faster and if you are shelling out money for Creed or Jo Malone, you want it to last.
DO apply your body lotion first, preferably unscented, then spray over. This will extend the life of your fragrance significantly

Niacinamide...why I love it plus a bonus pigmentation lesson

I started using niacinamide (topical vitamin B3) when The Ordinary first brought out their products and I practically purchased all of the range.

Little did I know, I had actually been using niacinamide for far longer, I just wasn't aware of it because it wasn't "trendy" a few years ago. I had actually been using La Roche Posay Effaclar Duo Plus which has the triple whammy of salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide and niacinamide. This tackles acne from all angles - unclogging the pore, reducing inflammation and improving the health of the skin and its ability to heal, as well as improving any pigmentation caused by the acne.

Why I love it

1) It is amazing for acne - it helps to regulate the oil flow in the skin, thus, allowing your protective barrier to remain in tact (the barrier can be damaged by harsher products like salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide), but also reducing the risk of pore clogging leading to comedones and spots. I particularly like The Ordinary's formulation as it is combined with zinc, another great anti inflammatory product which is an amazing gentle help for acne

Which leads onto point 2...

2) Niacinamide boots the production of ceramides ( a natural fatty component of skin which almost acts like scaffolding to hold the skin cells together). If you imagine your skin as a sieve, throughout the day and night your skin wants to leak all the lovely things that keep your face looking plump and hydrated. This leads to dryness, dullness, and loss of plumpness. Thus, we need to do as much as we can to close the holes in the sieve in order to keep all the good stuff in. Niacinamide is awesome at that.
Because of this, it is also great as a buffering agent underneath any product that may cause irritation, such as peels, retinols etc. It is also compatible with pretty much every other skin care active (ignore the historic belief that vitamin C and niacinamide should never meet), making it great for layering.

3) Pigmentation buster.

Pigmentation can be tackled at 3 points.

• Prevention of production of melanin by the production cells - known as melanocytes. The melanocytes are stimulated by UV rays and in some cases, even by heat and visible light, mainly delivered to the skin via infra red rays 
• This can be done by:
• Blocking the UV rays from stimulating the melanocytes (i.e. sunscreen - see my favourites here) and blocking free radicals which cause DNA damage via antioxidants such as vitamin c (best as Ascorbic acid)
• Via agents such as hydroquinone (or natural derivatives such as arbutin), kojic acid, and azelaic acid which block the action of tyrosinase (the enzyme responsible for kick starting the melanin production process)
• Prevention of transfer of the melanin to the surface of the skin (the keratinocytes)
• Removal (exfoliation) of the pigmented area from the surface of the skin using AHA's and retinol to boost the turnover of the skin

Niaciamide acts on the second aspect. Whilst it has no activity on the melanocytes themselves, it can stop the transfer of the melanin to the surface of the skin, thus blocking pigmentation. In fact a study in the British Journal of Dermatology found that niacinamide at only a 2-5% concentration gave a 35-68% inhibition of melanin transfer, leading to decreased hyperpigmentation and increased skin lightness in only 4 weeks. 

4) Decrease of lines and wrinkles - Niacinamide boosts collagen (plumpness) and elastin (firmness) so you tackle this from both angles. As mentioned above, it also allows your skin to tolerate stronger active ingredients, especially higher concentrations of retinols, so this allows a double whammy on anti ageing front

5) Skin dullness fixer - as an antioxidant, this can work in the same way as vitamin C to restore brightness to the skin

Simple.




Mentioned paper

Br J Dermatol. 2002 Jul;147(1):20-31. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer.

Swimming dramas - my endless quest to find the perfect goggles

I started swimming around 6 years ago. At this point I maybe did max 50 lengths, breast stroke, head above water, stopping every 10.

This required no specialised equipment beyond a swimming costume (at this stage I probably wore the dreaded tankini)

At a year in, I decided goggles would be quite helpful to stop other people's splashing causing chlorine blindness, and so for this purpose, any old goggle would do.

It was around 4 years ago that things got serious, I was swimming 4 or 5 times a week (although it took another year for me to be able to swim front crawl properly), and my hair, skin and eyes were suffering.

After MANY ear and sinus infections, I decided that it was time for a swimming cap, ear plugs, and nose clip to add to my swimming armoury - which at this stage only consisted of goggles and now a swimming costume.

It was at this point that I realised even all these items were not made equal.

I had ear plugs that fell out, degraded after a weeks use; nose clips that pinged off after the first length and snapped when placed back; swimming caps that disintegrated on contact with chlorine, developed holes with the stretching needed to get it over my hair, tugged said hair and rode up so I resembled Tommy Cooper by the end of my swim; and goggles that left indents so deep they looked like bruises or didn't suction so leaked and rendered them pointless.

After much research I found various solutions

Ear plugs

No contest - Speedo ergo ear plugs. They last ages even if they do discolour slightly.

Nose clips

Yet again, they have discontinued my favourites. I managed to bulk buy a few from America but sadly not enough. It was the Speedo liquid comfort nose clip - check regularly as sometimes the Ebay listings reappear!

I have had to go back to the Speedo universal nose clip, which works well, but loosens fairly quickly. Not a patch on the liquid comfort though.

Swimming caps

I now only wear long hair swimming caps. There is a strange extra bump at the back which your bun fits nicely into. This means that your hat and hair stays in one place, isn't tugged or damaged, and if your hair doesn't move, your goggles don't move.

I used to be a die hard fan of the ishka long hair swimming caps but they have since been discontinued. I have found an amazing alternative by TYR which is available from Proswimwear (where I make many swimming purchases)...here

Googles

This is an ongoing quest. The issue with swimming for long periods of time on a regular basis, is that the constant force of plastic on sensitive areas (around the eyes) will lead to some nasty looking dark circles, and long term, can actually move the fat around the eye and create permanent indents, as well as creating extra tension on the delicate skin leading to wrinkles.

I therefore decided to switch some mask goggles which instead exert the pressure over the cheeks and forehead which can take a lot more force with no long term negatives (you just look like a bit of a wally during the swimming time)

For four years I was in a monogamous relationship with my Aqua Sphere vista goggles. However around 9 months ago when I changed to a new pair (perfectly normal, the rubber degrades with all the chlorine after 6-12 months of use), and they leaked. Usually the first wear of a new pair of goggles is a joyous experience so this shocked me.
I wondered if I had a dodgy pair. I ordered FIVE more. They all had the same issue.

I concluded my face has undergone some sort of meltdown and have since tried EVERY PAIR OF GOGGLES THAT EXISTS ON THE PLANET. I have only found 2 that work. The goggle marks are slightly worse than the Aqua Sphere but they fade and cause no lasting damage.

My new faves are:

Nabaiji Swimdow goggles (in small - because I have the head of a 5 year old)

Costumes

Speedo Rippleback. They are comfortable, don't ride up your bum, stay in place and cause minimal resistance but they are SKIMPY so beware. The alternative for good hydrodynamics is to do a full triathlon suit. Either is fine.

Hair and skin protection

As I discussed in my hair care post, I use a leave in mask (Sun Swim Gym) before I swim, and always do my first shampoo with the Paul Mitchell Shampoo 3

I use my Snowfire ointment as lip balm every time before swimming without fail , my lips are always protected and love me for it.

I apply something on my skin before swimming to protect it. This seems to have helped not only with dryness but also with recovery from the goggle marks and with acne. Seems drying out spots with chlorine is not a valid acne treatment.

I have tried many things. What to avoid.

1. Anything oily
2. Anything fragranced
3. Anything tinted - including tinted SPF, it mixes with the water, destroys your goggles, clogs your vision and stings
4. Anything acidic - vitamin c, AHA's or BHA's

I have found my La Roche Posay Toleriane fluid and the No7 Line Correcting Serum perfect. It means my skin gets a little treat on the way to the pool and is protected during my swim. 

I also protect my eyelashes with a strengthening serum  - I like Revitalash and LiLash. 

After my swim, I wash my body with the chlorine shampoo because regular body wash still leaves your smelling of chlorine by the end of the day. I then moisturise with a heavy duty moisturiser. 

Enjoy your swim, please feel free to ask any questions, I have tried A LOT of swimming products. 

Mini Look Fantastic Haul

 

Quick one today!

I teased on instagram a video of me opening this (@smilesbetterskins) and here is what it contained!

PUREOLOGY STRENGTH CURE COLOUR CARE SHAMPOO,CONDITIONER AND SUPERFOOD TREATMENT TRIO

I have decided that my shampoo and conditioner game needs upping now the sun has started ravaging my hair! I use the Pureology shampoo and conditioner once a week when I am washing my hair at home (as opposed to the pool) and every time I am amazed by the difference it gives. 

Last week in fact, I used these products on the Sunday, washed my hair again on the Monday and could STILL feel the difference. So I went for it and re purchased. Also thought I would try the mask because...more is more right?

THE ORDINARY AHA BHA PEELING SOLUTION

If you haven’t read my mask post – where have you been? I declare my love for this product and my current one is running low, and the thought of being without this and having to deal with having multiple layers of skin rather than my product-thinned one, fills me with dread.

(checkout the post here) 

HYLAMIDE LOW-MOLECULAR HA BOOSTER 30ML

After indoctrinating all of my friends and colleagues in the importance of hyaluronic acid, I started them off on The Ordinary version, they are now ready to step it up, and Hylamide is the next level up in the never-ending sky scraper that is the Deciem company base.

This is runnier than The Ordinary version, but not as runny as the magnificent NIOD one. This means it absorbs more readily, and the low molecular weight of the hyaluronic acid molecules means it can absorb deeper into the skin, leading to increase plumpness!

The eyes are the windows to...your wallet AND bonus Boots No7 line correcting booster serum review

Today I will discuss all things eyes. There are lot of confusions around eye cream, what it is meant to do, how to apply it etc etc so I will attempt to clear them up.

The difference between the skin around the eye and the rest of the face is that the skin is much thinner because technically it is not designed to take the same amount of wear and tear as the rest of the face. It has far fewer oil glands which are required to give a protective barrier to the skin and keep it supple under the tension of movement, and it has significantly less collagen and elastin fibres. This area also moves a lot more than other areas of the face.

We blink around 10,000 times a day and every facial expression will affect the eye area in some way.

Combine that with the fact that due to the thin skin, the eye area is more sensitive to product, more prone to inflammation and allows the underlying blood vessels to show through more than on the rest of the face, and you feel like you’re fighting a losing battle with anti-ageing.

For this reason, cosmetic and skin companies brought out a million and one different eye creams all promising to improve the look of lines and dark circles (note the marketing speak, “improve the look”, completely unquantifiable)

The only way you will see a genuine reduction in lines and wrinkles around the eye area is Botox. If you stop the muscles moving, you decrease the tension on the skin and you reduce the amount of times the skin creases due to expression. This is great for those who want to do Botox, but many do not, or cannot. Similarly, Botox can only be applied in certain areas around the eye (no one wants a paralysed eyeball) and the skin will still crease due to movement of the cheeks and other muscles, which cannot be prevented.

Dark Circles

There are 4 reasons for dark circles, and they all look slightly different.  

1 is simply due to the skin being thinner and the area being highly vascularised (lots of blood vessels). This gives a blue ish appearance to the under eye area. Lack of sleep or illness will increase the appearance of this due to a change in the skin texture, just as lack of sleep makes your skin generally lack lustre.

The extent of the dark circle also depends on the shape of the eye socket and the level of fat deposit around the eye. If you have deep socketed eyes, there is more chance for shadowing and this can also present as a dark circle. 

Similarly, if you have a smooth and even layer of fat around the eye, you will have less of a dark circle. However if this fat moves or lessons in some areas more than others – which it does with age, the a puffy/bag appearance is created. The contrast between the raised area and flat area of skin beyond it will create a shadow.

 The final reason can be due to pigmentation of the under eye area. This is more common in darker skin tones and is often inherited genetically but can also be due to poor sun protection leading to sun damage and pigmentation in the area

You can tell if this is the case by gentle pulling the under eye skin down. 

If the colour moves with it i.e. onto the top of the cheek bone, then you know that the skin is pigmented.

If the colour does not move, i.e. the skin which appeared dark when in the under-eye area, is now a normal colour when over the cheek bone, you know that the darkness is caused by the visible blood vessels rather than pigmentation. 

Pigmentation can be improved with carious products including vitamin C (my favourite is the Ordinary Vitamin C powder which can simply be mixed into your eye cream or serum), and the brilliant iS Clinical White Lightening Complex and NeoStrata Enlighten Pigment Lightening Gel, Pricey, but they work. Cheaper alternative: Alpha H Absolute Eye Complex

Of course, you MUST take your SPF up to the lashline. If it causes sensitivity then look out for my post on SPF's for picky skin, coming soon

My top tips:

    1) Take MOST of your serums up to the lash line AND over the lid. Droopy, wrinkled lids will counteract any good work you have done on the under-eye area. The proviso with this statement is that certain active ingredients may cause problems if applied too close to the eye area.

      Retinol, for example, which can cause dryness initially at least, if applied to the under-eye area can actually make them look worse before they look better. However, retinol travels so even if you avoid the eye area, it will work its way up anyway. Personally, I apply my retinol serums all around the eye area. With the stronger ones I put a layer of moisturiser underneath to protect. This is especially important if you are using retinol (vs retinoids) or prescription strength retinoic acid.
Similarly, vitamin c can tingle so go carefully

          Hyaluronic acid, niacinamide etc are fantastic around the eyes

   2) You need to have different products for de-puffing and hydrating. These 2 problems require complete opposite tactics to deal with them.

Puffiness is a build-up of fluid around the eye area. It can be caused by: 

·     occlusive skin care e.g. creams that are too rich a reaction to something – either topical, or things like hay feverfood – salty food, rich food, alcohol will all cause puffiness

·    having a cold/being ill and run down

·    for some people even lying too flat in bed can cause it

In order to solve puffiness, you need to remove the fluid from the area. I would do this in 2 ways

     

•       Use a caffeine based eye product – there are loads of great ones but I love The Ordinary version (bear in mind, this draws moisture out of the eye, so use this, brush your teeth/do your hair then apply something moisturising over the top
•       move fluid away from the area via lymphatic drainage massage. This involves gentle tapping under the eye moving from the inner corner of the eye towards the temples. You can also apply gentle pressure under the brow bone at the beginning of the eyebrow and press along the brow bone out towards the temples
•       I also use my foreo luna mini device to help drain as the vibration will stimulate flow better than any finger tapping. I hold it gently on the inner part of the under-eye area and move out towards the temple, then use it to lift up the arch of the brow and hold it there. This also gives you a little brow/eye lift.

       3)   Eye creams – choose these carefully. Do not expect them to do anything miraculous. I purely use one because my eye area is much drier than the rest of my face, so I want an extra layer there before I apply an oil free moisturiser. They will not anti-age better than the serums or moisturisers you use on the rest of your face however they can decrease dehydration and allow make up to sit far nicer than on dry crepey skin.

  

      Here are some I like:

       Eucerin Anti-Ageing Hyaluron FillerEye Treatment – I have re-purchased this many many times. It doesn’t sting, it moisturises, it plumps, make up applies over it. Nuff said.

       nspa Smoothing Eye Cream – I bought this because I had run out of eye cream and was in Asda, so this was the first thing I grabbed. It does nothing special however it hydrates for the full day, concealer goes over it incredibly well, and after having my eye lashes tinted whilst on roaccutane where the skin under my eyes was red raw, this was the only thing that calmed it and didn’t sting…AT ALL.

      Olay Pro-Retinol Eye treatment. Use this if you are scared of using retinol too close to the eyes, or are on a stronger retinol product and can’t deal with the dry flaking under eye area for the 3-6 months it takes to settle

      No7 Laboratories LINE CORRECTING Booster Serum - My new favourite. This is not designed as an eye cream but it IS designed to target areas with more lines/dehydration/signs of ageing. I can honestly say that this does work. If you have deep wrinkles it will soften them slightly, if you have signs of dehydration under the eye (think cakey concealer) it will definitely improve the plumpness and any fine lines will definitely be reduced. It is very liquidy, it can be mixed in with other eye creams, serums or moisturisers but I use it neat and it works amazingly. I do not feel the need to apply anything on top and I am usually a richer-the-better under the eye kinda gal. 

Do not waste your money on expensive eye creams. There is nothing extra they can add to make it worth it. The honest truth is that no cream will ever get rid of the dark circle, all you can hope to do is strengthen, plump and fortify the skin over the top so 1) the veins underneath are less visible because the skin is slightly less sunken when plumped and hydrated and 2) the skin is smooth so bounces light by itself (like an inbuilt Touche Eclat).

      Concealer is your best friend.

   

      My dark circles are bad enough to require 2 concealers.

      I stay away from heavy formulas under the eye like Laura Mercier secret camouflage/Tarte shape tape as these are absolutely no good unless you do not have a single line or wrinkle under your eye and if they cake or crease this will just make the area look heavily made up, which defeats the object of what you are doing.

      Instead I apply a high coverage liquid concealer – Estee Lauder Double Wear concealer is my favourite. This just goes in the dark areas – the blueish bit from the inner corner of the eye to the nose, and the little dark area in the outer corner.

      I then apply a light reflective concealer – I prefer a combination of light reflection and coverage vs the straight up highlighting pens like YSL Touche Eclat or Dior flash.

      My favourites are Clinique airbrush concealer 

      Maybelline Dream Touch Lumi Concealer 

      Maybelline Age Rewind Eye Concealer in light OR neutraliser.

      If all else fails, camouflage with mascara or eye make up

      On days where I’m going more natural or can’t be bothered, I love Max Factor Mastertouch Concealer

      Hope this helps!

      Picture credits.

   

      https://www.tmbcosmeticsurgery.com/tmb-truly-modern-blog/why-do-i-look-tired-dark-under-eye-circles-why-we-get-them-and-how-to-get-rid-of-them/

      http://www.shoreaesthetics.com/tear-trough-treatment-dark-circles-under-eyes/

      https://www.charlottaeve.com/2017/11/09/howtodeepseteyesmakeup/