Product Empties - Spring/Summer 2018

Rather than doing individual products I have been hoarding lots of empty bottles in order to give an accurate representation of what I ACTUALLY use up. I try a lot of products so if something is empty it means its good, or at least I've given it a bloody good test.

Lets start from the top. A lot of these products will have been reviewed or featured in other posts and if that is the case I will link them for you!

Row 1

La Roche Posay Effaclar Duo +

Reviewed in my Roaccutane Survival Guide but in summary, a triple whammy of spot fighting ingredients in one handy cream/serum. LOVE IT. I will always have at least 1 of these on the go however after the Roaccutane and getting my skincare routine down, I find that I have less need for this am am using instead Paulas Choice 4% BHA serum as a once a week treatment on clogged areas or as a more specific spot treatment if one appears.


Ren Vita Mineral Eye Cream

Came as a freebie with something. I'm not even going to bother linking it as it did sod all from my under eye area. I have done a post all about my feelings on under eye care so have a read of that for much better options

Monu Skin Recovery Balm

Again, another gift with purchase. This was...OK. It was too drying to be classed as a balm, yet contains oil so isn't suitable for acne prone or oily skin. Hence I won't be using it again, in fact I used up the rest of the tube on my hands. Nuff said. 

Hyaluronic acid capsules

Love these. I have in fact gone through far more bottles than shown here. There is no need to buy fancy ones, similarly, there is also no point buying them in combination with anything else as there will always be better sources of - for example - zinc, or if combined with collagen you will simply pee it out as the collagen molecule is too large to be absorbed from the digestive tract. 

I have (of course) done a post all about my favourite supplements so head over and have a read if you want to cut the crap and see what really is worth your time , money and digestion. 

NIOD Multi Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Complex

This is the Ferrari/Lamborghini of the hydrating serums. Thin, watery, rapidly absorbed with no pilling. You can therefore use a much smaller amount of this than cheaper and thicker serums so yes, this is pricey but it lasts far longer than say, The Ordinary version. Different molecule weights of hyaluronic acid mean all the layers of the epidermis can be targeted as different weights mean different sizes which can pentrate to different extents. Which is exactly what you need for well hydrated, bouncy, glowy skin. The fact that it is so light yet so effective means I am often able to skip moisturiser and go straight to SPF, which is amazing in this weather. It was also a god send during Roaccutane treatment. 

Row 2

Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel Moisturiser
Fantastic oil free moisturiser. Super lightweight, great for men. The only issue I have with this it is SUPER fragranced , enough to cause sensitivity if you are prone. It did sting on me on occasion especially around the eyes so I will not be repurchasing, there are far better light yet hydrating, oil free options. Guess what....there's a post on that too


Footner exfoliating foot mask/socks

My second box. I have done a full post here. 

Boots Sun Swim Gym protection mask

I probably get through one of these every 2 weeks. I put it in before swimming (EVERY TIME) and without fail will have incredibly shiny, none damaged hair afterwards. Amazing. Washes out super easily too. Swimming post here

Dirty Works Buttery Salt Scrub. 

At any point in time I have at least 5 of these in my bathroom cabinet. The best body scrub I have every tried. It actually scrubs without scratching, leaving oily residue or generally making a mess. Great before fake tan, to remove fake tan, for bumpy arms or legs, before shaving etc. Wouldn't be without it, plus, its only £3!!

Nip+Fab Glycolic Fix Night Pads 60 packs extreme
These are a fantastic affordable daily peel pad. Yes you can buy a lotion (like Pixi Glow Tonic), however I like these as they contain glycolic, lactic and salicylic acid which is ideal for all skin types but especially those struggling with blocked pores especially at this time of year. I wouldn't bother with the daily version of these as even those these are labelled as "extreme" they are still only a low percentage of AHA/BHA.
Learn about acid toners/peeling here


NeoStrata Skin Active Retinol Plus NAG Complex 

This is extremely pricey and extremely strong. Although it is only 0.5% retinol it performs in the same way a much stronger percentage product would. Everyone who uses this experiences peeling. In my case I could use twice a week, and without fail on the third time I would wake up with a burning red face which would peel off 2 days later. Not pleasant. It contains NeoGlucosamine™ (which is the NAG bit) which supposedly reinforces the skins protective barrier, however no amount of this could protect my skin. I used it up because of the price tag but will definitely not be buying again. I now use Retriderm Max 1% retinol. Amazing effects, absolutely 0 irritation. 

Ameliorate Transforming Body Lotion

This was my 4th tube and I will not be without it. With a lactic acid complex not only does it really hydrate, it also exoliates. Great for bumpy skin on the back of the arms, amazing for use on legs particularly after hair removal. Cannot race enough about it. It also comes in a cream form and fragrance free. Perfection. Look out for it on offer at Escentual as they often to 1/3 off.
(Yes, its so good I cut the top off to get the remnants out)

No7 Laboratories LINE CORRECTING Booster Serum

Second tube. Will be buying more immediately. Find out more here but if you are a wash and go kinda girl but you want to have a dabble in anti ageing without the faff - this is the one for you. You can use all over or on targeted areas
Row 3

Colab dry shampoo spray hype galactic 200ml

I mentioned this in my hair care post. Smells incredible, not great oil absorption but great if your hair feels "too clean" or if it just needs a bit of oomph/texture or to use almost as a hair perfume


CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser

I am currently working through my second bottle of this. Fragrance and nasty-free cleanser. Will not remove eye make up but will happily remove light foundation, spf, grime etc. I always do a double cleanse when wearing make up so this is simply just to clean the skin itself. Non stripping, non irritating. I am fairly fickle with my cleansers so will keep you posted. 

Listerine Total Care Zero Mouthwash

If I am fickle with my cleansers then I am an absolute floozy with my mouth wash choice. Mouthwash for the most part should simply be used as a top-up of fluoride or freshness. Not to be used within 30 minutes of brushing. I use this if I have had a lot of citrus and cant brush just yet, or have been on the garlic. As long as it is gentle (no alcohol if possible) and contains a decent amount of fluoride I will simply buy whatever is on offer. 

Xentan dark lotion

I cannot rave enough about this stuff... so to save you from boredom..head to my summer survival post. Already have another one on the go and one in the spares box.

Soap and Glory Smoothie Star Body Milk

This. Smells. INCREDIBLE. Like coconut, sugar, and almond with a tiny hint of lime. Extremely moisturising. Love it. The matching body wash is also completely yummy.

The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% and Zinc 1%

I absolutely adore most of Deciem's products and am constantly trying more every week. This however has been a stable. I feel no need to buy any other brand or spend more money to get better results as this works perfectly. See my post on niacinamide for why....and also I have done a review of The Ordinary products I have tried so far (there's a lot)



Top 5 of my empties that you should try:

1) Dirty Works body scrub combined with the Footner mask because feet need extra help (yes that counts as 1!)

2) The Ordinary Niacinamide and Zinc for the reasons mentioned here 

3) XenTan Dark Lotion (the original not Luxe). Best body fake tan hands down. I never have any streaking, and it doesn't fade leaving you looking like tiger bread

4)Hyaluronic acid supplements to keep all the good stuff trapped in and retaining all that lovely dewy moisture in your skin. As a side effect it also helps joints etc

5)Sun Swim Gym protection mask. Without it my hair would have turned to straw and fallen off years ago.
IF YOU DON'T SWIM (bonus product)
5) Nip Fab exfoliating pads. Great entry level into AHA and BHA exfoliation. Very affordable. Work amazingly well especially in the heat

Facial fake tan

As we all know, I am a great believer in my beloved Xen Tan Dark Lotion, in combination with the Sienna X aerosol mist for days when there is no one to tan my back. However, as I no longer get my face in the sun (SPF 50 and Sun Togs hat are always with me), I do have a bit of a brown-body-white-face situation and I looked to rectify this.

I am extremely careful what I put on my face. I only use active ingredients in their purest serum form and oil free, fragrance free products over the top. I therefore thought I probably shouldn't be using body tan on my face. I have used the Clarins Liquid Bronze tanner for years however as it gives quite a natural tan (compared to my body which goes very dark even with SPF 50 use), it has to be used repeatedly to give colour, and whilst this worked well, it also resulted in various blocked pores and comedones. I therefore avoided any gradual tanners as I do not want to have to apply a product daily to get a result when I already have a hefty skin care routine with very carefully chosen ingredients.

Therefore I looked for specific facial tanners with minimal ingredients and minimal oil.

I have tried A LOT for you. Prepare for some fairly hideous photos. Apologies in advance.

La Roche Posay Anthelios Self Tanner

I thought I would first of all see what one of my favourite skin care brands had to offer from their self tan. This comes in a large bottle as I believe it is meant for body, however good old La Roche Posay are famous for their no nonsense, non irritating forumlas so I was quite happy to use this on my face.

 As you can see, the result is VERY natural, and would only really pick up in darker lighting. I found the formula quite sticky and I definitely would not want to try applying make up over it. However, unlike a lot of self tanners, it does not have a guide tint so if you used a good primer you could apply make up over it without it affecting the shade until it developed.

Verdict:
Not for me. This would require multiple applications to get to the desired colour and I have way too many other skin care products I would rather use than fake tan.

Xen Tan Medium Dark Face Tanner Luxe

Whilst this is marketed as a gradual tanner, I purchased the medium/dark option so that it would give a strong enough result on one application.

The "light vanilla scent" is anything but light. My nurse could smell it from where she was sitting despite me wearing a mask. It is a lovely smell, but the level of fragrance that this product must contain to give said scent terrifies me. It does apply very nicely and leaves less of a sticky residue, however it does come with a guide colour which is slightly on the orange side. I would definitely recommend wearing make up over it as it is not a pleasant shade on its own.

See below

Clockwise from top left:
Before, during, after 1 application, after 2 applications

As you can see, the guide tan is quite dark and orange, it gave a good change in shade however it clung to my darker areas of pigmentation e.g. around my chin and mouth. You could definitely apply it avoiding these areas to give a nice result, or if you are blessed, apply all over.

Verdict:
Good colour however I woke up the following day with a huge spot and blocked pores so will categorically never use this again.

Hylamide Glow Booster

I did not even bother to take photos with this as it did absolutely nothing to my skin. It was a nice but slightly sticky serum but absolutely no tan occurred. If you were very pale this may work, and give a slight hint of colour. The best thing is that it does it without DHA which can be irritating on some skins.

Vita Liberata Invis Foaming Tan Water in Super Dark

This seemed to be the answer to my prayers.
1) Super dark so only one application needed
2) Virtually nasty and oil free
3) Light, foam texture
4) No transfer
5) No guide tan

HOWEVER this was without doubt the WORST tan I have ever used. It clung to every single patch on my face. I had zero dry patches but it clung to every area of pigmentation I posses, even the ones that do not even show up in sunlight. I have shown below the patchiness. I look furious/depressed because I was.

HIDEOUS.
I wouldn't even use this on my body.

I therefore thought I would try my Xen Tan Dark body lotion on my face and ta da, perfect results. I avoid any areas of pigmentation e.g. where my melasma is, and it blends evenly and perfectly after 1 application.

Conclusion

If you have perfect, evenly toned skin, I would go for one of the mousse tans or the xen tan face. If you are a human being and have any patches of pigmentation or dryness, I would stick with whatever your favourite body tanner is, and just use it as a one off.

6 weeks Roaccutane (Accutane/Isotretinoin) free

Thought I would do a little update for you now it has been about 6 weeks since finishing my Roaccutane. This seems to be the agreed amount of time that the drug takes to clear from the body (although some of the side effects can last much longer, all of it has been metabolised and cleared now).

Skin dryness
Dryness has almost completely gone. My lips were back to normal by week 2 and any dry patches of skin from using products that were too strong have now completely gone. My skin is still combination.

Skin reactivity
The ferocity to which my skin reacts to products seems much reduced. My tolerance to retinols and acids has definitely increased.
I have not noticed and increase chance of burning from the sun, however I am being VERY careful - hat, sunglasses and SPF 50.

Joints
Knee pain has almost completely gone. I was lucky to never suffer from back pain but did have a significant amount of neck and shoulder pain and this reduced a lot, especially between weeks 4 and 6. My foot and ankle pain/ache is the only thing that is remaining but that has also reduced significantly.

Spots
I got my first spot around 4 weeks after being off Roaccutane. Turns out I was also due on my period! This came and went within a few days. Panic over. The issue with Roaccutane now is that people are put on it for much less severe acne than they were 10 years ago. If you have full face, severe, cystic acne, then an improvement for you will be much different to someone who gets 5 or 6 spots a month.
Because the 5-6 spots a month group are now being put on Roaccutane, the expectations for an "acne cure" are much higher, but this is not the reality. You will still get spots however they should be less frequent and less severe. 


The pictures below are me now. No make up. No filter (as always).

As those who work in hospital or in a dental surgery will know, there is no more honest, or less flattering light, than what they use in a dental surgery or hospital. I thought this would be a good light to show you my skin because you will see it, warts (/scars) and all. 

My skin care routine

AM

1.       Non foaming cleanser (I used antibacterial, anti acne, anti anything good for the skin    cleansers for years until a dermatologist told me this is the worst thing you can do!) I use Cereve hydrating cleanser, or cetaphil. Both super cheap from Boots
2.       Hyaluronic acid serum – I use the one from - The Ordinary hyaluronic acid and B5 serum  
3.       La roche posay effaclar duo plus – this has salicylic acid, niacinamide and benzoyl        peroxide which are the 3 best acne and pigment fighting ingredients
4.       Skinoren 20% azelaic acid cream - just around my chin and lips where I have comedones and pigmentation
5.       Oil free moisturiser – this is key. I have a post on my blog about my faves and I tend to rotate between them. I mix this with the ordinary 100% L ascorbic acid powder (which is pure vitamin c). This will work on the marks left behind by the spots, it also acts as a bit of a skin protector from UV
6.       SPF in summer (if you spend any amount of time outdoors or in the car in daylight you will need this year round, I spend most my time in a basement of a hospital with no natural daylight). I’m trying a few new ones out at the moment and will be doing a blog post soon

PM:

1    

1.        Cereve cleanser with my Foreo Luna mini
2.        AHA/BHA toner (unless I am about to follow with a stronger retinol) 
3.        Niacinamide serum (I love The Ordinary 10% niacinamide and zinc serum )
4.        Oil free moisturiser if I am using a higher strength retinol to buffer
5.        Retinol. I have a post on my blog (the “wait that line wasn’t there yesterday) with my       favourites. I had to drop down the The Ordinary Granactive retinoid 2% due to my skin    reactivity but am now up to 0.5% retinol in Neostrata Retinol NAG

Wait...that line wasn't there yesterday

Myths and truths about "anti ageing"

This is an extremely hot topic and besides acne, signs of ageing are probably the most frequent skin concerns. Unfortunately, a lot of products provide little more than false hope due to their vast marketing strategies and fancy packaging.

This post is going to be "real talk" about ageing and products to combat it.

So...first of all we need to break down the term "ageing", because it can mean so many different aspects.
Lines
Wrinkles
Loss of firmness
Loss of elasticity
Dryness
Pigmentation and age spots
Dullness

All of these aspects are improved by completely different ingredients and therefore the miracle "anti ageing moisturiser" that claims it tackles all of these is quite frankly, nonsense.

The only products clinically proven to be anti aging in terms of tackling most, if not all of these skin concerns, and those that you can legally claim to do so, are:
SPF and UVA protection - i.e. things that block the damage of UVB and UVA
Retinols and all their derivatives

The combination of the above 2 products will tackle all the above signs of ageing.

All the other products have no role in reversing or preventing skin aging, they can just improve "the look" of ageing - look closely at the declarations products make on advertising and you will see "improve the appearance of..." as this is the maximum they can claim the products do.

I will be going through individual ingredients on "ingredient of the week" to discuss the benefits they can have on one of more of these ageing concerns  as helpful ingredients like vitamin C and hyaluronic acid can have a major impact in improving the look and health and therefore youth of the skin

It is my strong belief that SPF should be chemical and not physical. Let's have a sun cream lesson to explain.

Chemical sunscreen is the form that the majority of high street SPF's will come in. Unless it SPECIFICALLY says it is a physical sunscreen, it will be chemical. Similarly, a lot of products may be a combination of both.

Chemical sunscreens have to absorb into the skin in order to work. This is why you have to apply them 30 minutes before sun exposure.

Therefore in order for you chemical sunscreen to protect from burning (UVB), the rays need to penetrate the skin. Imagine the chemical like a chain. When UVB is absorbed, it breaks the bonds in the chemical sunscreen chain and then the by products are scattered into the skin. Imagine milk going sour, this is effectively the bonds degenerating and the by products of this process produce the terrible smell.

This is why sunscreens also have to be reapplied, as eventually all the bonds are broken and it is no longer effective protection. The issue with this, is that the by products and the chemical filter itself are really not great for your skin. They are also difficult to cleanse from the skin at the end of the day. So all your hard work and skin care will be of limited effectiveness.

Now, onto why physical is better. Physical sunscreen form a mirror-like layer on top of the skin, therefore no chemical nasties are absorbed into the epidermis. The molecules reflect the UVA and UVB rays so gives protection against both in one swoop. This also means the rays do not penetrate the skin in any way so do not produce any nasty by products which can harm the skin.

Similarly, because it does not absorb into the skin, it is easier to remove and significantly better for acne prone skin, or any of us that go on holiday, look amazing, then 2 weeks later look like a drug addict covered in spots.

It is a little harder to find but I will list some below. All of them are tinted as physical sunscreens can give a white cast to the skin. This can easily be covered by make up but why not make things easier for yourself!

https://www.dermacaredirect.co.uk/skinceuticals-mineral-radiance-uv-defense-spf50.html

https://www.amazon.co.uk/UV-Clear-TINTED-Broad-Spectrum-SPF/dp/B00ZPWR0N8

https://inen.strawberrynet.com/skincare/jan-marini/skin-research-marini-physical-protectant/159835/


So onto my next miracle product - retinols

This is a tricky one and is a product that confuses many people. Retinol is the form of vitamin A that is effective on the skin.

They work by boosting the turnover of the skin, and forcing the body to produce more collagen. Therefore, the new cell that come to the surface get there more rapidly, and are more plump and better adhered to the surround cells therefore giving a smoother, more glowy, firmer and younger looking skin. The other benefit is the improvement they will give to acne prone skins. By increasing turnover you are removing the cells that block the sebum escaping, therefore reducing risk of spots or comodones forming, you also improve the scarring or pigmentation left behind by old spots. WIN.

The downsides are that if the underneath cells are not ready to come to the surface, peeling, dryness and redness will occur until the skin is used to this more rapid turnover of cells. This is why you should build up your retinols slowly, and why the results from the stronger versions take months.

Topical vitamin A comes in many forms which, in simple terms, have different molecule sizes which determine how much they can penetrate the skin and also have to go through different numbers of processes by the body in order to make them into an active end product which will work on the skin. It is due to these 2 factors that different forms of topical vitamin A have different strengths of action on the skin.

In order for any form of topical vitamin A (retinol) to be used within the body and the skin, the body must convert it into retinoic acid.

Therefore, the starting version of your vitamin A product will dictate how many stages it has to go through to be made into something useful for the skin. 

Retinyl palmitate/Acetate/Linoleate/Proprionate à retinol à retinaldehyde à retinoic acid

Most high street or starter products contain retinyl palmitate, which is still very effective on the skin for newbies, but as you can see, has low strength, and is in fact about 20% less potent than retinol

A pure retinol will penetrate further and be more active and therefore have a stronger effect, but also come with more side effects

If you want pure retinoic acid (tretinoin) then you will need a prescription from a dermatologist as these are the strongest form with the most side effects .

The strength also depends on what the product is mixed with, if it is not in a stable form, it will degrade as soon as you start using it. Similarly, if it is combined with an oil or a silicone it will slightly buffer the skin to reduce peeling or redness. The hardcore prescription versions have no such niceties.

It is worth noting that no form of retinoid, retinol or vitamin A should be used when pregnant, trying to become pregnant, or breast feeding. Sorry!

My favourite retinols:

The Ordinary and Neutrogena - retinoic acid ester

https://theordinary.com/product/rdn-advanced-retinoid-2pct-30ml

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neutrogena-Rapid-Wrinkle-Repair-Moisturizer/dp/B004D2C4Q4

La Roche Posay 0.3% retinol

http://www.boots.com/la-roche-posay-redermic-anti-wrinkle-treatment-30ml-10160065

The Ordinary 0.5% retinol

https://theordinary.com/product/rdn-retinol-05pct-in-squalane-30ml

Neostrata - 0.5% retinol but due to the other components is higher strength than The Ordinary version

https://www.neostrata.com/product/neostrata+skin+active+retinol+-+nag+complex.do

Similarly - Retriderm's 0.5% retinol is a great product

http://www.facethefuture.co.uk/shop/aestheticare/retriderm-vitamin-a-05-retinol-skin-serum.html

Going up a level is Retriderm 1% retinol

http://www.facethefuture.co.uk/shop/aestheticare/retriderm-vitamin-a-ultra-10-retinol-skin-serum.html?

Paulas choice 1% retinol is another goodie.

https://www.paulaschoice.co.uk/clinical-retinol-treatment-m8010.html