Friday, 20 April 2018

Hair care 101 and industry secrets





I was asked the other day if I could go through some hair care products and discuss what is worth the hype and what really isn't.

As with 99% of the beauty industry, most products sell through hype and advertising rather than by repeat purchase due to effectiveness. 

I have long hair which generally behaves itself but I put it through a lot. I swim 5 times a week (did I mention that already? not like I talk about it much....) and use a lot of heat styling. My hair is fairly fine but I have a lot of it. When it dries it looks like a sad mop and while it would not be classed as curly, it certainly wouldn't be able to dry on its own and look nice. Think straight with kinks. 

So before we begin with products, I will give you a bit of background info about the industry, which applies to skincare, make up and fragrance as well as hair care. If you are a beauty buff, you will probably know this already so scroll down to the good bit, if not, read on.

Pretty much all main stream designer brands get their money from larger brands rather than private funding. There are really only 7 companies who produce our main stream beauty products:

Company
Who they own
L’oreal

Procter and Gamble
Between these 2, you have covered pretty much any brand you will find in Boots (the drugstore) – including Maybelline, Covergirl, max factor, Garnier, Olay, and my beloved La Roche Posay.

They also own some of the higher end skincare brands like Decleor , Skinceuticals and SkII

In terms of hair, they also own Garnier, Clairol, Pantene, Head and Shoulders, Herbal Essences and even the higher end Kerastase, Pureology and Redken

Interestingly they also own designer brands Saint Laurent, Armani, Diesel and Ralph Lauren
Johnson and Johnson
Neutrogena and Aveeno
Beiersdorf
Again, good old drugstore skincare brands like Nivea and Eucerin but also, LA PRIARIE
Unilever
Dove, Ponds, Vaseline, Simple

For hair: Alberto Balsam, TreSemme, VO5 and Toni and Guy

Interestingly they also own Pot Noodle.
Louis Vuitton-Mote Hennessy
Shiseido
Unsurprisingly these 2 companies own the more high end designer brands like Dior, Guerlain and Givenchy as well as stuff for us mere mortals from Avene

They also own make up brands Benefit, Make up forever , Cle de peau, NARS, BareMinerals, Laura Mercier and Jean Paul Gaultier cosmetics


Now the reason for giving you this information is that the big mother companies will spend their money finding new ingredients or cutting edge formulations. They then release them in products from the higher end brands with the big launch. Once this hype dies down, the ingredient, formulation or product trickles down into the lower end brands and finally ends up in our drugstores so that the owner company can make the most money from the research and discovery.

Haircare example:
L’oreal owns Kerastase. Kerastase bring out their Elixir Ultime Hair Oil (41). It’s wonderful, it’s very fancy.

A few months later L’oreal Professional bring out their Mythic Hair Oil (£17)

Finally, L’oreal Paris (the brand you find in Boots or the supermarket) brings out Elvive Extraordinary Oil (£8)

They are pretty much all in similar bottles, with a similar fragrance and do the same thing. Yes the Kerastase has some more expensive essential oils and probably less silicone, but you get my drift.

Make up example:
Armani brought out Maestro fluid foundation, a few months later, L’oreal bring out Nude Magique. 

Same pigment-in-liquidy-formula that you have to shake then apply. A bit like Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua.

My point is, pick a product from a big brand, spend a little and you’ll more than likely be getting the same effect as the higher end one.

So now onto my picks. Get ready for one of my infamous tables:

Product
Why I like it
Paul Mitchell Shampoo 3


As you can see, I have the massive size which means I must like it because I am Fickle (capital F) with products.
For years I was trying to battle my dry, chlorine damaged hair which almost felt synthetic – like barbie hair- with moisturising masks. It wasn’t until a hair dresser pointed out that the masks or conditioners cannot penetrate through the layer of pollutants on the hair in order to treat it. In my case the issue was chlorine, but dry shampoo or hair finishing products will also be culprits
This contains a chelating agent (fancy term for something that causes stuff to stick to it, like a magnet) which binds the chlorine or pollutant, so when you wash out the shampoo, out comes the impurity too.
As soon as I started using this, within a week my hair was back to normal. Genius
Twice weekly shampoo:

Pureology Strength Cure Shampoo and Conditioner


As I mentioned, my hair is needy because of what I do to it, rather that it’s natural condition being frizzy. It has a propensity to be flat and so whilst it needs mega treatment and TLC it cannot be done with anything too heavy. These products use more of a protein based healing system rather than just adding oil or weight.
Due to the price of these products, I only use them once or twice a week, for the other days I use a variety of different shampoos
All the other days shampoo: Pick any moisturising one from Garnier or L’oreal

I like this one – Garnier Coconut Oil & Cocoa Butter


Honestly, this shampoo does not really matter. I only use it because the Paul Mitchell is quite drying and when I’m being speedy in the changing room, I just whack this second one on to ensure I have removed all the swimming mask I put on before I dive in the pool
Hair mask

Macadamia and coconut milk hair mask for dry hair
SMELLS AMAZING

L'Oreal Elvive Extraordinary Oil Very Dry Hair Mask

http://www.boots.com/loreal-extraordinary-oil-mask-pot-300ml-10183201#z4t2lcWWtKq0asTj.99
On days when I don’t use the pureology – which is all the time – I use a hair mask as a conditioner. I only use it in the mid lengths and ends, and if you had limper hair, you could just run it on the ends of very wet hair. If your hair is frizzier, squeeze or towel out as much water as you can before applying so it is less diluted. Then leave it on for as long as possible.
My logic is, if you only have a minute to leave your conditioner in, surely it is better to do it in the most concentrated moisture form rather than with a bog standard conditioner.


Heat protection spray


TRESemmé Heat Defence Spray


VO5 Heat Protect Spray


Again, all of these are much of a muchness so the things I look for are:
              1) That I don’t hate the scent 
              2) That the spray distributes the product in a                     mist, not in a volcanic eruption leaving one                   part of your hair soaked and the other dry

Spray in, brush through, job done.

Lee Stafford Dehumidifier Spray


If your hair is frizzy, or like me, you have a fringe which when met with humidity does all kinds of strange things,  this is a great product. If you have fine hair and have curled it, I wouldn’t use this as it can make it drop, but for straight or naturally curly hair its amazing, or just using on the fringe or side of the hair.
Garnier Ultimate Blends Coconut Hair Oil for Frizzy Hair


L'Oreal Elvive Extraordinary Hair Oil All Hair Types

http://www.boots.com/loreal-elvive-extraordinary-oil-100ml-10140048#zV3J70rSVTC0uWo0.99
Having tried all the aforementioned hair oils, from Kerastase to L’oreal professional to Morroccan oil, I genuinely find this to be the best finishing product.

I do not need to get extra moisture from my finishing products as I do that with good masks etc, what I need is something to de frizz or calm. I use this every time I have curled my hair to take away the poodly look, seal the ends, smooth and give shine.

If you really do want a more oil based product I also like the bogstandard L’oreal oil

Pre swim hair mask

Boots Sun Swim and Gym Protection Masque for Normal Hair

http://www.boots.com/boots-sun-swim-and-gym-protection-masque-for-normal-hair-150ml-10140075
I have used this religiously for about 3 years. Before this I had tried everything to try and protect my hair whilst swimming. Leave in conditioners just washed out as soon as the water leaked under my swimming cap (please note, swimming caps are to streamline and keep your hair out the way not to keep your hair dry), coconut oil was a pain in the arse to apply and even more of a pain to fully wash out.

This product is cheap, it is easy to apply, it stays in during swimming, it washes out easily, and whilst it provides no real conditioning effects in itself, it stops the chlorine penetrating the hair and more importantly does not cause any spots in areas of the skin it might touch like my forehead etc.
Its also a great one to use whilst on holiday too

Dry shampoo

Batiste 2 in 1 Invisible Dry Shampoo & Conditioner Cocoa and Cashmere


Batiste Dry Shampoo Tropical - Coconut & Exotic


Colab dry shampoo spray paradise and Colab dry shampoo spray hype galactic are my favourite scents

http://www.boots.com/colab-dry-shampoo-hype-galactic-200ml-10238530
Dry shampoo is an absolute must. Whilst I wash my hair after swimming, I definitely do not wash it after the gym, in an effort to try and preserve the health of my hair. For those days, or in fact for the days when I have washed my hair in the morning but need a refresh later on (aka my fringe looks like an oil slick), I use dry shampoo, and a lot of it. In fact, I get the huge size because my fringe needs topping up about 5 times a day

I have tried them all, from cheap to expensive and I stand by the fact that batiste is the best. The smells are great, and they absorb oil. Yes they leave a white patch if you spray too close so:
1)      Hold the can a good distance away from your hair before spraying
2)      Do not do a prolonged spray, literally blast and move on
3)      Ideally leave this in for as long as you can before brushing it out, after the gym, I spray in while I shower etc then quickly blast my hair with a hairdryer to distribute it through and dry the roots. This also gives LOADS of volume.

I do enjoy the smell of the Colab dry shampoos but they really do not have the oil absorbing power that I need due to my shiny-like-butter forehead. They are however great if your hair is too clean to do an up do, or your curls have come out too perfect. Even in this case, I tend to use the batiste dry shampoo and conditioner, which can be used all through the hair not just the roots, and the cocoa one smells great
Wet brush


Tangle Teezer Limited Edition -Skinny Dip Palm Flamingo

http://www.boots.com/tangle-teezer-limited-edition-skinny-dip-palm-flamingo-10228646#GKpWDfX2oriIFQDC.99
This brush was originally designed for people with tangly hair, however I cannot think of a hair type that would not benefit from this. The majority of damage and breakage to hair happens when wet because we all use a bog standard hair brush or worse, yank through it with our hands before rubbing the hell out of it with a towel.
I got this brush as a promotional offer with something I bought from look fantastic so thought I would give it a go but was quite happy with my tangle teezer.

I was wrong. The ease with which this goes through my long tangled hair is amazing. I also use it on dry hair, it is especially good for brushing out curls without destroying them. The amount of hair that snaps is significantly less and it feels so much nicer. It is also designed to get wet, so you can brush through conditioner and rinse the brush clean with no issues. They also do a special brush for people with hair extensions.

I still use a tangle teezer in my swim bag because its light, its really easy to clean as it is pure plastic and it is cheaper and a bit smaller, however when that goes, it will be replaced with another wet brush.






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