Showing posts with label lactic. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lactic. Show all posts

Monday, 9 July 2018

Product Empties - Spring/Summer 2018





Rather than doing individual products I have been hoarding lots of empty bottles in order to give an accurate representation of what I ACTUALLY use up. I try a lot of products so if something is empty it means its good, or at least I've given it a bloody good test.

Lets start from the top. A lot of these products will have been reviewed or featured in other posts and if that is the case I will link them for you!

Row 1



La Roche Posay Effaclar Duo +

Reviewed in my Roaccutane Survival Guide but in summary, a triple whammy of spot fighting ingredients in one handy cream/serum. LOVE IT. I will always have at least 1 of these on the go however after the Roaccutane and getting my skincare routine down, I find that I have less need for this am am using instead Paulas Choice 4% BHA serum as a once a week treatment on clogged areas or as a more specific spot treatment if one appears.


Ren Vita Mineral Eye Cream

Came as a freebie with something. I'm not even going to bother linking it as it did sod all from my under eye area. I have done a post all about my feelings on under eye care so have a read of that for much better options


Monu Skin Recovery Balm

Again, another gift with purchase. This was...OK. It was too drying to be classed as a balm, yet contains oil so isn't suitable for acne prone or oily skin. Hence I won't be using it again, in fact I used up the rest of the tube on my hands. Nuff said. 

Hyaluronic acid capsules

Love these. I have in fact gone through far more bottles than shown here. There is no need to buy fancy ones, similarly, there is also no point buying them in combination with anything else as there will always be better sources of - for example - zinc, or if combined with collagen you will simply pee it out as the collagen molecule is too large to be absorbed from the digestive tract. 
I have (of course) done a post all about my favourite supplements so head over and have a read if you want to cut the crap and see what really is worth your time , money and digestion. 


This is the Ferrari/Lamborghini of the hydrating serums. Thin, watery, rapidly absorbed with no pilling. You can therefore use a much smaller amount of this than cheaper and thicker serums so yes, this is pricey but it lasts far longer than say, The Ordinary version. Different molecule weights of hyaluronic acid mean all the layers of the epidermis can be targeted as different weights mean different sizes which can pentrate to different extents. Which is exactly what you need for well hydrated, bouncy, glowy skin. The fact that it is so light yet so effective means I am often able to skip moisturiser and go straight to SPF, which is amazing in this weather. It was also a god send during Roaccutane treatment. 

Row 2




Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel Moisturiser
Fantastic oil free moisturiser. Super lightweight, great for men. The only issue I have with this it is SUPER fragranced , enough to cause sensitivity if you are prone. It did sting on me on occasion especially around the eyes so I will not be repurchasing, there are far better light yet hydrating, oil free options. Guess what....there's a post on that too


Footner exfoliating foot mask/socks

My second box. I have done a full post here. 

Boots Sun Swim Gym protection mask

I probably get through one of these every 2 weeks. I put it in before swimming (EVERY TIME) and without fail will have incredibly shiny, none damaged hair afterwards. Amazing. Washes out super easily too. Swimming post here

Dirty Works Buttery Salt Scrub. 

At any point in time I have at least 5 of these in my bathroom cabinet. The best body scrub I have every tried. It actually scrubs without scratching, leaving oily residue or generally making a mess. Great before fake tan, to remove fake tan, for bumpy arms or legs, before shaving etc. Wouldn't be without it, plus, its only £3!!

Nip+Fab Glycolic Fix Night Pads 60 packs extreme
These are a fantastic affordable daily peel pad. Yes you can buy a lotion (like Pixi Glow Tonic), however I like these as they contain glycolic, lactic and salicylic acid which is ideal for all skin types but especially those struggling with blocked pores especially at this time of year. I wouldn't bother with the daily version of these as even those these are labelled as "extreme" they are still only a low percentage of AHA/BHA.
Learn about acid toners/peeling here


NeoStrata Skin Active Retinol Plus NAG Complex 

This is extremely pricey and extremely strong. Although it is only 0.5% retinol it performs in the same way a much stronger percentage product would. Everyone who uses this experiences peeling. In my case I could use twice a week, and without fail on the third time I would wake up with a burning red face which would peel off 2 days later. Not pleasant. It contains NeoGlucosamine™ (which is the NAG bit) which supposedly reinforces the skins protective barrier, however no amount of this could protect my skin. I used it up because of the price tag but will definitely not be buying again. I now use Retriderm Max 1% retinol. Amazing effects, absolutely 0 irritation. 

Ameliorate Transforming Body Lotion

This was my 4th tube and I will not be without it. With a lactic acid complex not only does it really hydrate, it also exoliates. Great for bumpy skin on the back of the arms, amazing for use on legs particularly after hair removal. Cannot race enough about it. It also comes in a cream form and fragrance free. Perfection. Look out for it on offer at Escentual as they often to 1/3 off.
(Yes, its so good I cut the top off to get the remnants out)

No7 Laboratories LINE CORRECTING Booster Serum

Second tube. Will be buying more immediately. Find out more here but if you are a wash and go kinda girl but you want to have a dabble in anti ageing without the faff - this is the one for you. You can use all over or on targeted areas
Row 3



Colab dry shampoo spray hype galactic 200ml

I mentioned this in my hair care post. Smells incredible, not great oil absorption but great if your hair feels "too clean" or if it just needs a bit of oomph/texture or to use almost as a hair perfume


CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser

I am currently working through my second bottle of this. Fragrance and nasty-free cleanser. Will not remove eye make up but will happily remove light foundation, spf, grime etc. I always do a double cleanse when wearing make up so this is simply just to clean the skin itself. Non stripping, non irritating. I am fairly fickle with my cleansers so will keep you posted. 


If I am fickle with my cleansers then I am an absolute floozy with my mouth wash choice. Mouthwash for the most part should simply be used as a top-up of fluoride or freshness. Not to be used within 30 minutes of brushing. I use this if I have had a lot of citrus and cant brush just yet, or have been on the garlic. As long as it is gentle (no alcohol if possible) and contains a decent amount of fluoride I will simply buy whatever is on offer. 

Xentan dark lotion

I cannot rave enough about this stuff... so to save you from boredom..head to my summer survival post. Already have another one on the go and one in the spares box.

Soap and Glory Smoothie Star Body Milk

This. Smells. INCREDIBLE. Like coconut, sugar, and almond with a tiny hint of lime. Extremely moisturising. Love it. The matching body wash is also completely yummy.

The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% and Zinc 1%

I absolutely adore most of Deciem's products and am constantly trying more every week. This however has been a stable. I feel no need to buy any other brand or spend more money to get better results as this works perfectly. See my post on niacinamide for why....and also I have done a review of The Ordinary products I have tried so far (there's a lot)



Top 5 of my empties that you should try:

1) Dirty Works body scrub combined with the Footner mask because feet need extra help (yes that counts as 1!)

2) The Ordinary Niacinamide and Zinc for the reasons mentioned here 

3) XenTan Dark Lotion (the original not Luxe). Best body fake tan hands down. I never have any streaking, and it doesn't fade leaving you looking like tiger bread

4)Hyaluronic acid supplements to keep all the good stuff trapped in and retaining all that lovely dewy moisture in your skin. As a side effect it also helps joints etc

5)Sun Swim Gym protection mask. Without it my hair would have turned to straw and fallen off years ago.
IF YOU DON'T SWIM (bonus product)
5) Nip Fab exfoliating pads. Great entry level into AHA and BHA exfoliation. Very affordable. Work amazingly well especially in the heat

Tuesday, 5 June 2018

Summer feet part 2 - foot mask

Dead skin be gone

In a bid to get my feet holiday ready I had 2 options, spend hours soaking and filing my poor dry feet OR sit with some socks on for an hour and let the products do the hard work for me.

Being incredibly lazy I went for option 2.

Enter Footner Exfoliating Socks.

These are effectively, 2 plastic bags with a material soaked with exfoliating ingredients which include my favourite AHA's (see my post for a guide to these) - Mandelic, Glycolic and Lactic acid, as well as some hyaluronic acid for a bit of hydration.

You basically cut the top off the plastic bag to allow you to insert your feet, you then wear the socks for an hour - I put socks over them so I could carry on with my normal evening activities but I did find the solution sloshed about a fair bit so you would be better just sitting watching a box set while the mask does its work.

You then rinse your feet and forget that you did anything to them...until 3/4 days later. To start with I thought the product hadn't worked but day 5 hit and boom, my feet fell off.

I have inserted some delightful photos below. If you have a foot phobia perhaps scroll past these.

The result however is fantastic. I did an extra bit of scrubbing on my heel to get rid of a tiny bit of remaining dead skin, but the rest of my feet were baby-bum smooth.

I would definitely recommend however be prepared to have around 4 or 5 days where your feet will not be in a presentable state and to have socks filled with dead skin. The process isn't pretty (although it is incredibly satisfying peeling off the shedding layers), but the results certainly are.

Before


During treatment and 3 days later


Days 4-5 post application (and post a bit satisfying self-skin removal)

Nail varnish worn:

Lavender Violets Coral Gold and Apricot Ice ( I wouldn't recommend as the apricot ice bit basically looks like you've half removed a glitter topcoat and given up, but to be thorough I thought it best to include)
Canni UV Milk Shake

Sunday, 15 April 2018

Toner, or To - no thanks



The age of toners for the face seem to have hit a boom with the release of Clinique’s 3 step programme. Usually at this point, I would begin to slate marketing and social popularity for the nonsense of these systems, but at this time, even dermatologists were recommending nothing but the Cleanse, Tone, Moisturise routine, as serums hadn’t been created.

If you wanted results you would go to their clinic for peels and lifts.

In this day and age, those style cleansers are complete nonsense. What is it you think your toner is doing for you? What do you want it to do?

As I discussed in my cleansing post, if you are not removing your make up or rubbish from the day effectively with your cleanser, there is no hope for you. No amount of wiping your face with cotton wool soaked in alcohol will change this.

In my opinion, the only valid ingredient in a toner is an acid.

This is the point where people become scared, but acids are a true godsend.

Imagine an old garden bench with flaking paint. Would you paint over the top without sanding it down? If you would then you need a trip to DIY school.

Acids resurface the skin by breaking down the bonds between skin cells, allowing them to be lifted from the surface of the skin.

There are many different acids available on the high street and the difference between them, is molecule size. Molecule size determines how far into the skin the acid can penetrate.

To get maximum results you want a range of sizes to act on all the outer layers of the skin.

You can begin this process through your toner.

I will list below some of the toners used by people I’ve spoken to about this. I will break down why they are, mostly, pointless.

Product
Relevant Ingredients
Why it’s useless
Vichy Purete Thermale Perfecting Toner
Aqua,PEG-8,Glycerin,PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil,Disodium EDTA,Copper Sulfate,Myrtrimonium Bromide,Parfum

Look at the ingredients, it is basically water, oil and perfume. With some glycerin which, yes, will attract and retain water in the skin, but this ingredient will likely also be in your moisturiser and EDTA which may bind certain “impurities” such as chlorine, but that’s about it.
VERDICT: POINTLESS
Darphin Refreshing Toner
Water, Pentylene Glycol, (BananaFlower Extract, (FigFruit Extract,Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilButylene Glycol,Sodium PcaCitric AcidDisodium EdtaSodium Citrate,Potassium SorbateChlorphenesinFragrance,Butylphenyl, MethylpropionalLimoneneCitronellol
Again, water is the main ingredient. The selling point of this product is the banana and fig flower extracts. Why? Who knows. Oh, and added fragrance even though it has these flower extracts.
Literally nothing useful in here and its £23 a bottle!
VERDICT: POINTLESS and EXPENSIVE
Lancôme Tonique Confort
WaterButylene Glycol, GlycerinCyclopentasiloxane,Yeast ExtractTocopheryl AcetateCyclodextrinSodium Hyaluronate, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil,Triethanolamine, Mel (Honey), Mannitol, Isopropyl Palmitate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer,Disodium SuccinatePrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Protein
So…water, yes, it’s the main ingredient in most things. Glycerin, as mentioned with the Vichy, this will draw moisture to the skin, but you would do this so much better with serums or moisturisers. Same with the sodium hyaluronate (hyaluronic acid). Again, castor oil, a nightmare for anyone with any risk of clogged pores, and honey which I suppose has an antibacterial element but not in this concentration.
Again, this is £23
VERDICT: POINTLESS and EXPENSIVE
Simple Kind To Skin Soothing Facial Toner

Aqua, Sorbitol, Sodium PCA, Allantoin, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate Methylparaben, Propylene Glycol, Hamamelis Virginiana Distillate, 2 Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben.

Firstly, sorbitol will give the product that nice cooling effect on the skin, but at the sacrifice of drying it the hell out.
Next: Parabens, parabens and more parabens. This is supposed to be soothing yet is rammed with these?
It also has a foaming agent (Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate).
VERDICT: JUST NO.
On the other end of the spectrum are the “clarifying toners” which are even worse, as they target people with problematic skin. The above ones are useless, yes, but they are targeted at people with slightly dry or normal skin, so adding such a product at least would do no harm (except to your wallet) except for the simple version
Eucerin Dermo purifyer Toner
Aqua, Alcohol Denat, Butylene Glycol, Poloxamer 124, Lactic Acid, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Glyceryl Caprylate, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum,
Second ingredient, alcohol. Because apparently acne prone skin, which is, by definition, extremely sensitive to any disturbances of the outer layer, needs something to IRRITATE THE HELL OUT OF IT. Not. Similarly for the added perfume.
Lactic acid, this is about the only helpful ingredient here but will be counteracted by all the drying factors.
They have added castor oil to try and counteract this. Castor oil. In a product for oily skin. Wonderful
VERDICT: RUN
Clarins Toning Lotion with Iris, for Combo or Oily Skin
Water, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Propylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Oleth-20, Sodium Chloride, Disodium EDTA, Parfum/Fragrance, Sodium Citrate, Panthenol, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Glucose, Crataegus Monogina Fruit Extract, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Zinc Sulfate, Sorbic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate, Silica, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Limonene, Hydroxycitronellal, Benzyl Benzoate, Hexyl Cinnamal, Yellow 5, Blue 1
Aloe, points for this as it is indeed calming, but is it necessary? Will it help with oil? No.
Next, at least with the other products the fragrance as at the end of the list, this one is right up there. This one also has colourings just for fun. As well as lovely parabens and witch hazel to ensure your skin is irritated to the max.
It does have some retinyl palmitate but so low down the list it will have little to no benefit. Especially considering you are about to follow with a serum and/or moisturiser which will dilute it further.
VERDICT: I’LL STOP NOW

So now you know what NOT to look for and now list my favourites. 

They are all acid based bar one.

Acids are great and not something to be feared. Here is a quick breakdown so you know what you are looking for






The only really helpful Beta Hydroxy acid in terms of skin care is salicylic acid. The difference between the 2 being that alpha hydroxy’s are water soluble and beta hydroxys are oil soluble. This means that beta hydroxy acids (BHA’s) are able to penetrate into the hair follicle (otherwise known as the “pore” and clear out the sticky cells which are stuck inside said pore.

Therefore, unless you do not suffer from clogged pores at all (perhaps you are supermodel and thus could give me some of your money?) then a combination of AHA’s and BHA’s in their various forms is what you are looking for.

Product
Relevant Ingredients
Why I love it
NIP + FAB GLYCOLIC FIX EXTREME NIGHT PADS

https://www.lookfantastic.com/nip-fab-glycolic-fix-extreme-night-pads-60-pads/11457541.html
Aqua (Water/Eau), Glycolic Acid, Triethanolamine, Glycerin, Polysorbate 20, Niacinamide, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Benzyl Alcohol, Disodium EDTA, Mandelic Acid, Panthenol, Salicylic Acid, Lactic Acid, Limonene, Parfum (Fragrance), Benzyl Benzoate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Geraniol, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Citral, Linalool.
I prefer these over the daily ones as 5% glycolic is not an “extreme” amount regardless of what the packaging says. I feel you are better off using these every other night then a lesser amount daily.

There are also a combination of acids – both beta and alpha

Bad points – alcohol and fragrance. However even on my extremely reactive skin they do not cause a problem. I think because they are in such a low percentage and buffered by the hyaluronic acid and glycerin.

PIXI
Glow Peel Pads


The solution also comes in nottle form so you can use your own cotton wool

PIXI Glow tonic
http://www.marksandspencer.com/glow-tonic-250ml/p/p22424632
Water, Glycolic Acid, Aminomethyl Propanol, Glycerin, Rosa Damascena Flower Extract, Polysorbate 20, SD Alcohol 40-B, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Phenoxyethanol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Arginine, Tocopherol, Sodium Hydroxide, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate, Sodium Carbonate, Sodium Chloride.
Again, this contains a range of acids – glycolic acid at a whopping 20% which means results will be speedy. However there is aloe and glycerine to counteract, and the benefit of no added fragrance as well as some retinol in there for added youth boosting!

Yes there is alcohol but again, I do not find these irritating.
DR. DENNIS GROSS SKINCARE
Alpha Beta Peel Extra Strength Formula

https://www.cultbeauty.co.uk/dr-dennis-gross-skincare-alpha-beta-peel-extra-strength-formula.html
Purified Water, Alcohol Denat., Glycolic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Leaf Extract, Salicylic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Malic Acid, Citric Acid, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Menthyl Lactate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Soy Isoflavones, Copper PCA, Zinc PCA, Disodium EDTA, Fragrance (Parfum), Sodium Benzoate  
These are strong enough to need 2 pads, one to peel, one to neutralise

A mixture of 5 different acids

Annoyingly, they do contain fragrance, however, if you are using these, you mean business because they are STRONG so a little fragrance will do no harm
La Roche-Posay Serozinc Spray

https://www.escentual.com/la-roche-posay/larocheposay141/
Water, Zinc chloride, zinc sulphate
Zinc chloride is an astringent which means it is great for use when you are hot and sweaty and the pores are liable for bacteria to penetrate the pores, it is also good at reducing oil. Zinc sulphate is great for healing
I use this on holiday and after the gym following the shower on the body, although it could be used on the face. It has been one of the few things that helped my body acne. Great for men as it comes in a spray bottle and helps with spots caused by sweat, hair removal etc.